Bus cuts out

Discussion in 'Mech Tech' started by iblaze, Sep 27, 2019.

  1. iblaze

    iblaze Supporter

    Hi all
    Just ran the bus to local garage to get tracking done but few hundred yards from garage she lost power and cut out.
    She immediately starts but as soon as press accelerator she cuts out again.
    Type 1 engine electronic ignition
    Fuel filter few months old
    Fuel put in last weekend.
    Cheers Ian

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  2. Fuel pump not delivering enough fuel when driving and reservoir in float bowl used up on restart?
     
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  3. iblaze

    iblaze Supporter

    I had it ticking over on the driveway for 10 mins whilst we moved other vehicles to get her out.
    Ive left it at the garage now but had a nose in the engine bay before i left
    Noticed new fan belt a bit slack so adjusted it also condensation on the carb body.

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  4. Could the carb be iced up, do you have preheat still installed?

    If the battery wasn't charging then your attempt to restart the engine wouldn't have worked. A good spot, but not the source of the problem here, I think.

    This sounds more like a fuelling issue, at first glance.

    Occasionally, you hear of electronic modules breaking down when they get hot, or failing all together.
     
    Last edited: Sep 27, 2019
  5. Sounds like a carb issue. When did you last service it


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  6. iblaze

    iblaze Supporter

    Yes mate still got pre heat on.

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  7. iblaze

    iblaze Supporter

  8. I would check, fuel pump, fuel lines, fuel filter, then carbs, float, needle valve, vacuum etc.
     
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  9. kink in fuel line?
     
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  10. iblaze

    iblaze Supporter

    I'll take a look

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  11. As said, its likely to be fuel supply problem. Low revs idle on driveway is not only bad for the engine but uses little fuel and doesn't show the fault which seems to occur out on the road when fuel demand is high. The sudden loss of power and cut out is symptom of running out of fuel. Misfiring, and banging and gradual cut out is usually a sign of ignition fault.
     
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  12. mikedjames

    mikedjames Supporter

    This could simply be icing caused when the choke closes too early . Maybe worth checking it is fully on at startup.
    Or the choke pinged off and the engine was still cold because it was only idling, so there was no hot air for the carburettor..
    Weather has got more humid so you are now exploring the provision of heat as the bus warms up.

    Generally better to start it and drive off than leave it idling.
     
  13. Barry Haynes

    Barry Haynes I dance in leopard skin mankini’s

    If that's what your into:thumbsup:
     
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  14. iblaze

    iblaze Supporter

    Well shes back from the garage
    Had the tracking digitally done
    And the camber adjusted.
    Garage said it was just a bit of crap in the carburettor.
    Im not totally convinced with that.
    More like icing i think especially when i seen condensation on the carb body.
    Mike i dont normally leave her idling on the drive, but was waiting for the wife to move her car.
    Cheers everyone for your replys.

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  15. iblaze

    iblaze Supporter



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  16. Mine ices up briefly after start up in cold weather, but soon melts away. When your van cut out just before the garage, I doubt the carb was still iced up, you would need to test that. Maybe the garage is right, bits of crud in the carb. Its a common problem on here, so search for others' posts. Perhaps its time to clean out the carb and replace the fuel lines, your new fuel filter should be under the fuel tank, inspect it for bits of crud.
     
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  17. iblaze

    iblaze Supporter

    The garage is literally 30 seconds drive from our house.
    When i was having problems with my carburettor flooding, the carb was on and off numerous times each time i clamped the fuel line with mole grips so it could be broken up inside.

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  18. Did your garage prove there was dirt in the carb or was it their suggested possible cause.

    When you had the flooding, did you clean out the carb and jets and replace the float valve and set the float height.

    The new filter you fitted, where is it and can you see any dirt in it.

    Did you check the choke is working. Do both heat risers heat up quickly so hot you can't touch them after 1 or 2 minutes of running.

    Clamping the fuel line many times would as you say risk cracking and bits carrying into the fuel. When did you last change the fuel lines.

    Do you have the stock mechanical fuel pump or an after market electric pump.
     
  19. iblaze

    iblaze Supporter

    No mate they simply said reving it cleared the blockage
    The carb never really ran properly as the engine hadn't been started for 12 years
    I simply stuck the engine in to see what it was like as all i was told by the PO was it was a runner when he removed it.
    The engine started first time but fuel peed out from the bushes.
    I bought a carb rebuild kit from Jk and some bushes from ebay, cleaned and rebuild the carb but the kit made the float overflow.
    Eventually sorted it with ppls help on here then at techenders Mike James sorted out the timing and mixture as she was running roughly and fast.
    The filter is as i said a few months old under the tank... not had chance to check it yet.
    Choke working fine.
    Mike sorted out the heat pickup for tha air filter as it wasn't working but now does.
    Heat risers aren't brilliant but i have drilled them out they get warmish
    All fuel lines including breathers were new in May.
    And the fuel pump is stock.

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  20. Sounds to me the engine is fine, but the carb still has issues. The carb rebuild kits are cheap repro stuff and not well liked. Presumably the carb is a genuine Solex 34 pict 3 like mine. When I bought my van, the carb on it was a poor quality empi repro, awful thing. I splashed out on a rebuilt and refurbed solex with genuine parts and it has been reliable the past 4 years. Your heat risers don't seem to be getting hot, unlike mine which get too hot to touch very quickly. I thought they played a big part in warming up the carb and inlet manifold quickly to melt any icing. My tank is the steel one, probably original and has rust inside, made worse by ethanol in petrol, ethanol absorbs water and when standing, sinks towards the bottom of the tank. The ethanol also rots rubber fuel lines and carb parts, its a pain.

    I use the large Meyle clear plastic filter so you can see any bits. I change mine every year and when I last changed it, the filter was full of waxy stuff from the ethanol.

    If its a solex carb, I would remove it and get it professionally cleaned, maybe the float mechanism is worn or the float may leak, so sinks a bit in the bowl, these things do happen.
     

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