Well - all seems well. Mechanic came over (gotta love a mechanic that does home visits) and adjusted the pedal to booster rod. Took for drive and did half dozen stops for further adjustments. Bloody easy when you know how. Never had brake issues in 20 years of T25 ownership and so different to beetle brakes. I’m still such a newbie to Bay ownership. Wife is away this weekend, so will throw Stan (dog) in the front and go for a test drive tomorrow. Mid winter in Sydney is wonderful sunny days at the moment. 6*C in the morning getting to a cool sunny 17*C midday. Perfect weather for a “let’s find a country pub” weather.
1st prize goes to... @snotty! 1st suggestion too. But... it's unusual (never heard of it) that it went out of adjustment and also that your mechanic found it needed further adjustments after a few stops. This all sounds suspicious to me so I'm hanging on to my "pedal seizing on the shaft" as the root cause. Got to be something.
Yes - I’m waiting to see how it goes. The further adjustment was to get the travel “right” The “lock” nut on the pedal rod was only “finger tight” - maybe that was the cause. Just went for a 30km drive and all seemed fine. Go for a bigger drive tomorrow and see what gives
Ok - I have no idea. Just went for a 100km+ run. Down to Manly Beach and then up the coast a bit. Back home to the inner west. Lots of hill that I braked on and not down shift. Ran great. That said - brakes are definitely different to my T3. More travel. Guess I don’t daily drive it like my 1303. Knew every squeak, rattle and movement in that car. I can’t remember now what the brakes were like a year ago before the engine build. I “seem” to remember when I picked it up “ohhh, the brakes are nice and tight now” Thinking now maybe they were over adjusted when I picked it up. I’ve done 2,000 kms since getting it back. 1,200 of those were cruising down the M1. not much breaking. Just going to have to park the T3 (sorry T25) for a while and cruise in the bay. Got to admit, air cooled, Webers, cam and CSP Python makes for happy cruising.
The pedal travel is two-fold - the tiny bit you should feel with your hand from the rod free play and the rest is shoe adjustment. If you then pump the pedal without the engine running you should end up with almost no play and very hard pedal. With the engine running the pedal seems softer with more travel (an inch?) but only due to the servo working. One final thing (I know, I'm harping on about it). At no time should you be able to lift the pedal manually. Not even 1mm, if should be lifted to a stop by the spring on the pedal shaft. If you can lift it easily - broken spring, if you can lift it but it's harder, it's seizing on the shaft. I'll shut up now.
