Do both sides for the bearings. If one side's duff, the other won't be far behind. The inner races just drop out, but the outer ones need tapping out with a drift. VW helpfully provided little "gaps" in the hubs for this very purpose. Then carefully knock/press the new races in.
First... - front up in the air, wheels off - pads & calipers off - bomp off hub centre caps (disconnect speedo cable on lhs) - remove discs (might be changing them anyway?) - loosen hub nut clamping screws, undo hub nuts (left hand one is left-hand thread) - remove washer, pull off hub and catch outer bearing race - prise out grease seal from rear of hub, pull out inner race - scoop out four pounds of useless grease from inside hub ("Always used to do that on my old MG, y'know (puffs pipe)") - tap out front and rear outer bearing races with drift, clean up hub Then... - knock in new outer races x 2 (seal driver helps) - pack new bearings with loadsa grease - slap in rear bearing, knock in new grease seal - slide hub over axle, push in new outer bearing race - put on big washer and hub nut - tighten nut while turning wheel, to push up races and seat them - back off nut until you've got about (from memory) 4 thou gap between washer and nut (or - VW method - until you can slide the washer back and forth fairly easily with a screwdriver) - tighten hub nut screws - etc etc... Something like that. A chore, but pretty straightforward.
Changing the bearings is pretty much as Snotty says above though getting the old races out can take a fair bit of patient tapping with a drift - you are unlikely to do it with a couple of large whacks. Take great care puttng the new races in to make sure they go in nice and square, if they get stuck in wonky you'll have to tap them back out and start again.
Theres a guy on YouTube has a couple of good, well explained videos on changing wheel bearings, his username is Fix it Scotty
True. Just little taps, slow and steady. I used a bearing driver - basically just a flat plate - to drive the new ones in. As above, make sure they’re not cocked. When they’re in, run your fingernail round the bottom edge to make sure they’re all the way in and seated flat.
Calipers back from Bigg Red today: They didn't have any fitting kits so I need to reuse my old ones unfortunately. £125 the pair. Seems fair?
Discs, pads, bearings and hoses arrived yesterday so will have her back on her wheels by lunchtime tomorrow Edit: OK, maybe not quite lunchtime...
Anyone now best way to spin the pistons so I can line them up to the tabs in the anti-squeel shims or does it not matter? Previous workshop that did this work just flattened the tabs on the shims:
So I ended up having to pop them out with the compressor. Just as well I did as they were full of metal swarf: Not cool. What grease is used here?
Lovely! That’s Big Redd crossed off the list. No excuse for that. I’d use some silicone grease on the seals.
I'll go see them on Monday. I also stripped down the other caliper to be sure. Not quite as bad but there was still a tiny amount. Possibly acceptable: Anyway they're are back together again and now I'll go see the bus with this little lot:
That's the only way. Just as well you did, but one wonders where the swarf came from? Do they machine for oversize pistons?
In both calipers they had told me one of the threads had failed. In the other side its definitely the inlet as you can see the helicoil. In the other it must have been a bleed nipple. Crazy they don't clean them after drilling and tapping.
