Bloody fuel gauges

Discussion in 'General Discussion' started by Phil, Sam N Gracie, Mar 15, 2012.

  1. i think im either Marmite at electrics and understanding instructions that are available, or BOTH my fuel gauges are broke. I have the original in the speedo and a splitty gauge undermounted. i cant get either to work, and i do know the split one is 6v, i have a reducer. I dont understand about the voltage meter i have, and dont have the crocodile clips needed to make it easy. I cant fit under the dash very well as i am too broad, and ive got the hump with it. Is it a hopeless mess or should the fuel sender be my next port of call? Or how do i test the sender without cutting a hatch?

    It is irritating me and making me very very grumpy. Sam can vouch for that.

    PSG
     
  2. buy a fuel sender and test the gauges with it ,that way you know for sure..

    Take clocks off it is much easier 4 screws and speedo cable..
     
  3. If you have a 1700 1800 or 2000 litre engine you can get to the sender by removing the bulkhead. With an upright engine I don't think its possible to get the bulkhead out with the engine in place (someone may be able to correct me here though?).
     
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  5. Tuesday wildchild

    Tuesday wildchild I'm a circle!

    May I be stupid and ask why you need 2 in one van :headscratch2:
     
  6. The last owner put the splitty one in, it doesn't work either so I don't know why it was even done. It honk it's the sender to be honest cos the splitty gauge flicks and goes to full with some wire touching so I need to tackle the sender really. I might start a new thread in mech and tech now.

    Cheers all. Oh and it's a 1600 so it's engine out to get to the sender, and tank out to change it. Good design there lol.

    Psg
     

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