I had to replace an alternator that was three weeks old; they are carp these days. You could get one from a scrap engine; that would work better and you have to partially remove the alternator to get to the cables anyway. But I would check the light on the dash first. Rub the contacts gently with a piece of emery paper, change the bulb and make sure that the light is plugged into the dash correctly.
so the engine cranks over normally and starts and continues to run, but the alt warning light is permenantly on, regardless of RPM (it's not unusual for them to flicker at low idle)... when the engine is running, you've measured the voltage across the battery terminals and it's reading 12.4V measure the output voltage from the alternator to it's earthed casing...if this is higher than 12.4 your alternator sounds good did you test the VR at the harness according to Ratwell's guide? State D+ (red/blue) DF (green) D- (brown) Lamp Ignition off, engine off 0V 0V 0V off Ignition on, engine off 1.28V 0.64V 0V on Ignition on, engine idle 14V 5V 0V on Engine on (fast idle) 14V 5V 0V off if this checks out then I think the problem lies inside the regulator itself...if it's stuck on, it will boil the battery....what you may be reading is the alternator output across the terminals of a dead capacitor substitute your bus battery for the Kangoo (or simply disconnect your bus batt terminals and connect to the kangoo batt via jump leads)...start the engine and verify the voltage across the batt terminals and at the alternator as per....re check the voltage at the VR harness...don't take too long about it as the alt output is now unregulated! if the regulator is duff, you need to test for resistance (ohm's on a multimeter) for old type regulators: D+ and DF - 0.3 ohms D- an DF - open D- and D+ - 80 ohms (courtesy Ratwell) not sure for later types
I can get to the block that pushes into the regulator, and the other end of that'loom' that goes to the starter motor/solenoid, but the other end is encased behind a disc with 3 bolts.... And I can't get them out in situ... Any other way of exciting it?
Sorry, replies crossed.. How do I measure the output voltage from the alternator to its earthed casing?
multimeter probes between the output terminal (B+) and the casing or any good earth nearby with the engine running
Thanks for all your replies and help guys....I must admit, I had to walk away and ride my bike for a couple of weeks, as I had the hump! Anyway, I got the repro alternator out (mission...the lower nut was rounded, but that's another story!) .. I took the that, and the original, to guy autos who are a proper old school auto electrical place in standon, near me. I knew I roasted the original one, but he told me the windings were knackered in the new one. I dug out the receipt, and it turned out I'd had it for a week over 12 months!! Grrr!! I rang up heritage and begged, and being the superstars that they are, they sent me a new one!! That's now in, and the van is back to running perfectly!! :0) Looking back, I don't think the first one was ever right, as it took a long while for the light to go out, and it was constantly glowing...this new, new one is spot on! Well happy :0)
