Red oxide do you have a build thread?, interested how you did it. I'm very much a beginner when it comes to metal work but like the idea. I've seen you can buy frame repair panels but they only seem to do the bottom sections or did you just make it all up your self?. Top idea to do some then come back to it. Yeah zed they weren't curved which is why I'm assuming the frames were rusting through as they didn't seal properly saying that rust get everywhere on most old cars to be fair. Please don't reject me from the late bay forum for asking this but does the deformation panel have any structural properties?. Love the prototype bay front bumper. Just wondering if I can trim it back, close up any gaps then weld some brackets to hold it on?. I've done a fair amount of searching but can't really find a definite answer.
You have to be a total knobhead to be rejected from the late bay Ive been here for years and they still put up with me
Haha, so envious of your humongous garage and your awesome workshop skills. I want to do that but I think that's past my welding capabilities and workshop tools to create the curved L shaped pieces. I've been struggling with the welds I've been practicing on thin stuff took. When doing but welds it blows through after about 2cm. Been trailing through the net for tips which I've not yet had a go at. Looks like several small bursts is the way to go.
spot spot spot spot spot spot spot spot spot ......rest.....and repeat, running a weld will end in a hole, This was the first VW Ive done, there pretty thin with huge unsuported panels prone to warping if you hammer on the amps... take it easy, and take your time .. you can shape the curved bits without any expensive tools, a flat edged hammer... or invest in a £60 shrinker stretcher, they work fine.. If your tackling one of these rusty relics youll soon have the skills and the scars to prove it ...
Sod it you've all inspired me, will have a go with the shrinker stretcher. I'll practice on the inner rear wheel arch repair when I take off the outer skin before trying to do anything with the windows. Save me changing the entire inner wheel arch. Will post up some pics how I get on over next few months
Luis Navarro on here did the deformation panel thing recently to fit a bumper. More involved I think because of the sweep of the steps and height of the doors. http://thelatebay.com/index.php?thr...ht-facelift-ago-go.52566/page-36#post-1018400
So I've been busy the past few months Follwing some help in the right directions from various members on here on a few different threads. Started off stripping it all out, seeing as it was parked in the garage the way it is I started out on the rear nearside wheel arch as I assumed it would be the easiest bodywork fix for a newb, how wrong could I have been. Took the old arch off to find a right old mess behind it. There was me thinking it only needed a few new wheel arches and she'll be back on the road. DERP! Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
And the sills were bodged too of course Then held the new wheel arch on to find it didnt look quite right. It stuck out around an inch or so more than it should at the bottom The reason why was because the outriggers had been extended for some reason. So went about lifting the plate that had been put over the standard floor panels so I could see what what was hidden under that too. Floor was like swiss cheese . So now I am past the point of no return its either sell it as rusty mess or take it on and thaks to your messages I went for it. So took out all the floors and while I was at it all top hats, I beams and outriggers as they were all bodged and plated. Or wonky Cut out the crispy bacon sills and repaired some patches in the chassis around the handbrake cable tube. Such a mess Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
Fitted all new I beams, top hats and outriggers/jacking points and inner/middle sills. Then painted with bonda Repaired the wheel arch housings. Dont have the pic for the other side. Not much steel left once all the fibreglass disintergrated. . Thats about as far as I've got, currently in the process of repairing the b and c pillars, the bit between the wheel arches and then onto the bulge next to the beer pillars. Cut off the plate covering the mess underneath which was covering another rusted through patch. I take it this area this is just one sheet steel thickness originally?. Hard to tell as its 2 or 3 layers thick on the inner wheel arch side too I'm still new to all this so if anyone can see anything I've done wrong it would be lovely if you could point me in the right direction. Any tips or pointers would be a huge help. You guys are so knowledgable. I've been using Fletchs book alongside reading Diddies resto thread a million times. If you had a pound for every time I'd opened it you would be able to buy the starwars copyright. Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
C pillar inside and outer repaired, made a template from the inside of the outer arch to get the right profile. Work started on the bits around the bulge Had to order the front wheel arch and seat belt repair so went back onto the rear end as I already had parts. Trial fitted wheel arch My plan was to make an inner wheel arch repair from an outer. Works quite well fits tight in the outer wheel arch repair. Cut out the rot around the rear window Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
Also I see you're a fan of the cleco pins too! Really useful. Which panel did you put the joggle in (or is it just overlapped without?). For my side panel I put the joggle in the new panel but think for the rear ones I'll put the joggle on the old panel.
I've been watching your resto thread using your pics as a go to checking what Im doing . Feels exactly the same as mine and yeah those pins are simple yet so effective. Funnily enough that was playing on my mind when I did it. I read Fletchs manual which says put the joggle in the old panel which makes sense for weld contamination etc but after I ran the joggle along to see how it might go it wouln't have worked as the panel behind it was too close to get the jaws in. So went with the joggle on the new panel. Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
I may get away with the joggle on the old as I think I'll end up having to cut higher. I reckon it's fine to have the joggle in the new provided you clean up the back of the old panel. That was easy on the side panel as I could get to the back from the cargo side, might be more of a challenge on the rears.
