I'm having difficulty getting my 73 rhd bus to fully open the trottle - probably only about half throttle at best. It has a new justkampers linkage as the old one broke while I was tiring to adjust the cable. I have some photos showing the lever near the gearstick at no throttle and pedal to floor. Should the pedal be higher than this? The only way I can figure to get substantially more travel is to cut apart the new linkage and reweld at a better angle. I'd guess that no gas pedal should be still up against the floor of the van (but with the pedal in the cab higher), and full throttle would have the lever swung round further to the 6 o'clock position (rather than 8 o'clock it is now - 3rd photo) - but seems odd that both my new and old linkage bars would be wrong. Stock twin pdsit carbs (think from original 1700cc) on a 1800cc motor. 1973 RHD.
The pedal should be more upright. Try turning the lever that goes the floor so it's in the position show in photo 3 when pedal is upright. ..it can go onto the cross bar 2 ways. This should give you more cable travel.
^^^whs Disconnect the cable at the pedal end prop up the pedal to maximum height see what angle the bolt on bracket comes out at (pic 2 & 3) make sure the throttle is fully closed at the carb end offer it up in relation to the bolt on bracket pull the cable from the cab end to wide open throttle offer it up again and figure out the angle you need
I'm having exactly the same problem with my rhd 74. I was planning to cut the pedal end off and re weld it back on slightly twisted up. A friend of mine makes accelerator linkage kits (buttys bits) he has kits for other set ups but he's yet to make one for this rhd set up. I popped round today with my linkage and he's got some ideas on how to improve it and he's going to make a prototype for me to try out in the next few weeks. I know this doesn't help you right now but it if you find you can't solve the problem it may help you in the near future.
Thought he already did one for the pedal. If you take the slack out of the cable so the pedal is where it should be. Make sure you have the return spring adjusted properly too. You will find on standard type4 set up you will probably need washers between the arm and the spring to get it right. If all that fails then extend the actuating arm that the cable attaches to at the front.
Thanks for the thoughts. I'll try putting the lever attached to the cable the other way on the bar, but even with the pedal further upright I feel the lever will be pointing straight forward - and no good at all. But I'll give it a go and report back. I bought one of butty's linkages in a last minute bid to improve things before we went away which didn't involve cutting reasonably working bits - but it didn't quite arrive in time and not got round to fitting it since - it might help a bit, but not enough. It should help with the smoothness and longevity regardless. Dicky, the reason the pedal can't go higher is because the lever attached between the other end of the bar and the accelerator cable is hitting the underside of the floor near the gear shifter.
At the moment the only part he does for this set up is the small bar under the pedal. I'm sure there will be some more playing around but he is planning to make his own linkage bar as well that will will give you more pull on the cable
That's exactly what's happening with mine. It's almost like the pedal end needs to be more upright so it twists further before reaching the floor. The other end would then twist further. This is what butty and I were talking about today. He's looking into making it so you get more leverage etc.
http://s1037.photobucket.com/user/r...D-401B-83C3-1CF7AF3DC9DB_zpsmshn83gm.jpg.html This arm needs to be longer and will then provide more movement for the same degree of rotation moving the cable through a greater distance as its further away from the pivot point.
I'm certain a longer lever at the gearstick end would help, but also sure it won't be enough. My first attempt was to cut the lever at the pedal end and reweld Which worked great for a while until it became jammed open on the motorway, then me bashing the pedal broke my shoddy welding and caused a trip on the big yellow lorry with flashing lights Next effort was to make a new lever the gearbox end Slightly longer, but more importantly twisted a few degrees. Still only 90% open now, so may try again for the last bit. Certainly less chance of it requiring me to use yet another rac token. I'm happy that this has safely and permanently fixed the problem and can happily do 60mph on the motorway and use even more petrol than before...
I'm currently testing this kit out This was quickly put together for me by buttybits but he's planning to make a refined version. So far so good, I definitely have full throttle. The pedal end is adjustable on mine so I can set it to the perfect position. theres needle bearing inside the tube and a larger return spring mounted underneath. It feels really good and the refined version is going to be even better! Here's a few pics
It's been a while but I fitted the new buttys bits Throttle kit on today! It looks and feels absolutely spot on. Really light and smooth under your foot. Massive improvement on the stock set up!! Here's a few pics.... For the time being my return Spring is just hooked onto the chassis. Butty is looking into making a little bracket for it so il wait and see what he comes up with. The accelerator cable is in the middle adjustment hole which is the same as the stock position. There's also two more holes so you can tweak it about If needed. You can read the full spec on buttys website http://www.buttysbits.com/throttle-kits1.html
