A quick heating system question

Discussion in 'Mech Tech' started by scrooge95, Nov 18, 2023.

  1. scrooge95

    scrooge95 Moderator and piggy bank keeper

    Having removed the centre belly pan on Clem, to patch up the hole where the Fiamma table leg socket used to be, I've had a quick look around....
    (Probably should've done this a few years ago, but better late than never, eh?!)
    Anyhow, I found the lever that diverts the heat (such as it is with a Tupe 1 engine) either to the totem pole or the rear passengers/ cargo area.
    My cable is bent and buckled and now not connected, and I don't tend to have rear passengers. Nor does any 'cargo' such as garden rubbish on the way to the tip etc, require keeping warm....
    So what actual position should I leave the lever in?

    Tucked in....
    [​IMG]

    Or sticking out?
    [​IMG]

    Without taking things apart that are nicely held together, I can't tell which position of lever relates to what position of flap.
    If you know the answer, you can be my favourite person on TLB (until the next favourite person comes along!)
    I'd like as much heat as possible going forward to the totem pole.
    Cheers m'dears xx
     
    Lasty likes this.
  2. DubCat

    DubCat Sponsor

    I think if you disconnect the cable from the lever, the spring will hold it in the position you want. I'm pretty sure that's what I did.
     
    scrooge95 likes this.
  3. scrooge95

    scrooge95 Moderator and piggy bank keeper

    I think the spring may be gone or stretched, as the lever will stay where I put it.
     
  4. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    Someone very recently posted pictures of the inside - it was another heating thread.
     
    scrooge95 likes this.
  5. scrooge95

    scrooge95 Moderator and piggy bank keeper

    Ah brilliant. I did have a quick search through, but couldn't find an answer. Maybe I need to search different words!
     
  6. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

  7. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    Start engine, pick a position, stick your hand in the draft or not from the rear vent?
     
  8. scrooge95

    scrooge95 Moderator and piggy bank keeper

    Fair point. I've never had air coming through into the back as far as I know, but judging by the state of the cable I'm not surprised.
    I just don't want to put the bellypan back on with it in the wrong position! That would be highly annoying (although not exactly insurmountable ;) )
     
  9. TBH, I wouldn't bother with it. Air to the floor vent doesn't do much, in my experience. Could pull one of the pipes off and stick a Pokey Thing down it to see which way the deflector flap is pointing, but I wouldn't bother, meself.
     
  10. scrooge95

    scrooge95 Moderator and piggy bank keeper

    I just didn't want to inadvertantly leave it in the diverted position when I put the bellypan back on.
    In the end, I disconnected and poked about down the tube.
    I think sticky out position is flaps to the front open.
     
    snotty likes this.
  11. Fingers crossed! I managed to sort mine out (actually ground the welds off and removed it for a looksee). Not really worth the effort, as they don't really do much. But, good idea to move the flap out of the way.

    After putting my Eberspächer in, it works so well I didn't even bother to reconnect the totem pole at the front. Have you got an Ebers/Propex/heater that actually provides heat?
     
  12. mikedjames

    mikedjames Supporter

    My guess is pulled away from the centre line of the main duct, to pull a flap over to cover the side tube, rather than having the flap in the way of the air flow with the lever over towards the centre line.
     
    scrooge95 likes this.
  13. scrooge95

    scrooge95 Moderator and piggy bank keeper

    Yes, I think you're right - that was how it felt when I tried to stick my fingers in for a feel around. Sticking out appeared to cover the off-shoot tube going up to the walk-through vent.
    I'd love it if it all worked properly, and I think I've got a replacement cable for that bit - but that's for another day / week / month / year. And until I manage to source some OG heat exchangers, I'll not worry too much.

    I've got a Propex that resides under the rear bench, and heats the 'living area' when I'm camping (if necessary). The idea of plumbing it in to make use of the existing heater tubing would be nice - but the chances on me bothering to light it when I'm off on a journey are slim, so it's probably not worth the effort; plus it brings different challenges when working out where to site it.
    I'll stick with the OG heater system, and hope to uncover a set of genuine multi-finned heat exchangers one day.
     
    Huyrob likes this.
  14. mikedjames

    mikedjames Supporter

    I have a cable from the diverter flap that comes out by the totem pole but then has nowhere to go.
    I occasionally pass the time trying to use a cable lubricator to get oil into it. - its all stiff but it does move.

    So it looks like the microfiche diagrams from the Samba with lots of cables all vaguely floating around in space providing a parts list reference but not an assembly guide.
     
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  15. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    I have a distant memory of that one being under the seat in earlier models and attached to the totem diverter on later ones so you get demist or general low level heat. if you look at the level on the totem pole flap you should see a hole to attach the extension cable.

    Personally I think you're nuts if you try and get all those cables working properly, I'd lay odds that even from new the cables jammed and bent in no time flat.
     
    Last edited: Nov 19, 2023
    nicktuft likes this.
  16. scrooge95

    scrooge95 Moderator and piggy bank keeper

    From memory, I think I disconnected the cable heading downwards from the totem pole lever, when I was trying to get the screen demist working properly.
    Without decent heat exchangers it's always going to be a bit rubbish. One day....
     
  17. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    People are a bit hard on after market HXs IMO. There are more important aspects of the heating I think, namely leaks in the system and door seals! Your 1776 won't be as hot as a 1600 because you don't need to thrash it so much. I never got much from my OG HXs on my 2.4L for the same reason - the heating on my 1700 with after market HXs was hotter because I nailed it through the gears but now just pottering is fine - not much heat.
    They ARE better though and the only bus I've had where I had to turn the heating down was a 1600 with OG exchangers. I thrashed that one at all times - the perfect combination maybe - crap engine and good exchangers. Point being IMO thrashing it is as important as the heat exchangers, you'll never be very warm if you drive like a granny.
     
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  18. Even with decent HEs, it's still a bit rubbish. I've got original HEs, and it's still a pretty useless system, especially on a bus with the long hose runs. Best to fire up your Propex or Ebers (even VW used to fit an Ebers in the system as an option).
     
    scrooge95, Lasty and Zed like this.
  19. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    Mine was actually really good in my tintop, I had to turn it down even when it was snowing outside.
    Probably a freak one as my other buses over the years have all been rubbish.
    Now I just dress warmly and only expect it to keep the windscreen demisted.
     
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  20. Lever towards tube = hot air to Cabin

    [​IMG]


    Lever away from tube = hot air to Cab

    [​IMG]

    Mine doesn’t have a spring, so the lever will have to be held away from the tube to toast your feet whilst driving.

    Do I attain ‘Favourite Person’ status?
     
    paradox, DubCat, Zed and 3 others like this.

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