2in drop at front

good morning i want to lower by westie by 2in would you use adjustable beam or dropped spindles TIA
Steve

 

I’ve not seen 2” drop spindles, adjusters are probably your easiest option.

<Mine is on 2½” Wagenswest drop spindles with coil-over dampers to lift it ½”

 

Adjustable beam and coilover shocks to stiffen suspension to compensate for reduced upward travel available, and to reduce tyre rubbing or inevitable shock absorber banging with stock shocks.

E.g. my bus is down 4 inches on cut and twist and back up 1 inch on coilovers.

Drop spindles widen the track slightly so usually need a narrowed beam or there will be more rubbing.

Flipping the Anti Roll Bar wont be needed with drop spindles but with adjusters it stops it hanging down and catching ..

Its why I dont have an ARB. It snapped because it kept catching at 4 inches lowered even flipped over. I just use the added stifness of the coilovers. Now I prefer the independent suspension on rough ground.

Doing it properly is not cheap.

But the bus will blow around less in return for becoming bouncier with coilovers.

 

Mine's got an adjuster on the beam with standard shocks. Can recommend for a modest drop.
Sometimes get a bang going over speed bumps ... would coilovers solve this issue @mikedjames ?

 

Mine started off like this with the interior fitted.


Loaded for camping it went down some.


With occupants in the front seats, lower still.
Now it's also a shed it's even lower, I don't have a good picture.


You should see it with 10x20kg bags of smokeless fuel mainly in the passenger footwell/on the passenger seat, there's no room in the back.
I'm glad it's not lowered, I'd be riding on bump stops.
Just sayin.

 

When I first got my van I thought it looked high at the front ( as I later discovered it should be).
I had her lowered on beam adjusters, partly to get in my garage and it now looks like this.

Sent from my SM-J330FN using Tapatalk

 

Thank you very much for your prompt replies i will be going with adjusters,

Steve,

 

I suggest you get them welded so you can raise it back up again.

 

If you use coilovers, it tends to reduce the rubbing in return for making the nose of the bus bounce up harder on bumps - the force per distance compressed increases, its simple physics.

The Gaz coilover shocks I have also have adjustable damping which can be tweaked to balance the springiness and bounciness, mine are on a bit over half way.
Mostly set up by using the foot on bumper technique - a hard shove down should be met with a return up as the pressure is removed that is fast but doesnt keep on bouncing back up and down again. Critical damping for control systems engineers.

Because the coilovers apply some force, the general idea is to lower a bit too far on the adjusters then wind it back up that bit on the coilovers.
In that case, having the adjuster range still include all the way up to stock height is not quite so important as in the end you can wind it all the way back up with the coilover pre-load adjustment.