1600 twin port speeds

Discussion in 'General Discussion' started by Soggz, Aug 6, 2020.

  1. Ok.
    What’s the normal speeds through the gear ranges, for your normal AD 1600 engines, I.e, from 1st to 2nd, to 3rd to 4th?
    Also, what speed do you feel the bus is ‘ comfortable’ at for long distances? I always believe the old pilots saying of “Stay Alive at 55”, although I know it’s good for 60, but it gets loud!
    ( what engine bay/ seat box sound proofing, do you use, too?).
     
  2. I'm a 55 to 60 kinda guy, it will do more but it's noisy. I like to find a lorry to sit behind and slipstream, reduces wind noise and fuel consumption :)
     
  3. 50-55 keeps it all steady
    Then the gears as my driving instructor taught me 2nd at 20, 3rd at 30, 4th at 40 depending on conditions.
     
    Last edited: Aug 6, 2020
  4. Yep that's me too. It'll do 65 without toooooo much trouble, but I'm happier that bit slower - keeps the oil temp from getting to 120c, and makes any cross winds easier to deal with.

    (Edit: mine is type 1 1776cc)
     
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  5. The manual for a 1600 bus says...

    1st 0 - 15
    2nd 10 - 25
    3rd 15 - 45
    4th 30 - 68

    It also says you can push 3rd to 50mph for brief periods if the situation demands.
    :hattip:
     
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  6. John Muir said the 1600 bus should be 10-20-35-60.

    I’ve just had a long drive up to Anglesey and my oil temps were just around 100-105 all the way, the last part of that journey was around 55 but I did not like being overtaken by foreign artics.
     
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  7. 55-60 for me, you should have a bit more if needed for short bursts and just a bit faster than the lorries so you are overtaking them not the other way round
     
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  8. or as mine used to say, "listen to it ... and if you get burned up by a milk float just after changing up you've jumped the gun" :rolleyes:
     
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  9. The range VW say each gear CAN cover isn't a recomendation for driving style. All the gears overlap and it's pretty obvious that driving a vehicle with a top speed of 68mph at 65mph isn't condusive to long engine life and nor is hitting 50mph in 3rd every time.

    Not that these things are impossible - my wasser crank 2020 type-1 with a 6-rib box would go to 65 - 70mph in 3rd very smoothly.
     
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  10. "It's all in the wrist action!"
     
  11. What's the recommendation for Type 4 2.0 with 6 rib?
     
  12. Now I suspect it's main problem was overly large exhaust I kind of wish I'd kept it a bit longer!
    I've just been adding up part costs for a type-4 stroker from scratch, just the bare engine... £5k. Other than case, flywheel and push rods, used parts don't exist.
     
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  13. Are you saying I'm "underselling" my type 4?
     
  14. No, the costs lie in the knock on from large capacity via a stroker crank. You need new everything and none of it is stock. The way I did it halves the cost. The Engine Shop will sell you a similar exchange 2.4l with a bit of cam to get over the CR problem for £2,600. I wonder if they last any longer than mine did?
     
  15. Goddit :thumbsup:
     
  16. Not saying yours is priced right or wrong, I have no idea. :thumbsup:
     
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  17. Nope , Steve's bespoke bits will cost a small fortune and then there's the machining, assembly etc etc ...
    Your t4 is worth what someone will pay for it , so at your price it'll sell . You could put it up for 2k+ but it would just sit there as other recon options are available .


    Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
     
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  18. I thought it was about right but also thought it was a "cross thread" comment :rolleyes:
    Fingers crossed eh?
     
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  19. The above suggestions are no doubt, on the flat. I live in the south downs, and 3rd to 4th is a right pain when climbing. It feels like you are overevving or labouring in 3rd, so you change to 4th and it drops off the power band, engine dies, back to 3rd. Rinse and repeat. I've taken to just chugging up hills at 30 in third and waving at the queue behind.

    Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk
     
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  20. And the local peleton over taking you


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