Will get the light out.. could be off a bit then that sounds about right... The other van's mark must be spot on, it runs great straight off now its had dizzy swap new plugs leads new echaust oil change service ...etc.. Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk
Well it was pretry accure crank fan mark set at 7.5 btdc peering through hole in fan case. Timing mark on fan matched at 8 on scale while there idle strobed be be around the same value and still slow idle so upped the static to 10 and took a bit off the top end of centrifugal. Idles 850 - 900 now but pops through carbs occaisionally at start of accelaration.. improved a little by taking the start of the vacuum ramp down back to 50 kpa as had 0.5bar max reading. Still not as smooth as the old simple one but better... Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk
Don't know what to suggest. I fitted mine, timed it same as the old bosch and it idled identically. I copied the curve manually from the old bosch, input it to the 123 and again, it drove exactly the same. Only after that I fiddled with the curve because the bosch idling at 7.5 topped out at 33 degs which was too much. My fat pistons and lack of squish though actually like more timing right through the curve so after all the experimentation I've found a limited full advance on the old bosch and the whole lot advanced just by turning the bosch to idle about 9 degs is pretty much the same. So I sold the 123 and refitted the bosch. I don't think my dells provide enough vacuum for the vac advance but that's another story.
Might have to try the old accuspark that came off the other bus to see if engine is ok just in case something changed in the swap... That was failing after 30 mins of driving so should at least see if it idles right... Current running.... Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk
Have you watched the timing with a light while you do that to see if it's even doing what it's supposed to?
Watched on the app, but that's hard to follow with the missing 'static' numbers .. I'll see if i can get the app on a tablet and strobe it too ..later.. gone back to the boat to sulk and have chips .. Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk
Was aiming to, but there were none in stock and thought this would get us going on two buses again quicker!
Must admit I set my stock 123 with the 7.5 before and the green light and it ran perfectly, almost no adjustment needed. I’m sure a bit of fettling adjustment and you’ll get there
Thats the really annoying bit the old stock 123 that I had in rhe dokka went staight in Mrs P's bus to repace the dodgy accuspark one that got her big yellow taxi trip. No bother... straight in smother than a smooth thing, and got us a weeks touring in. Back home to set this thing up and pulling my hair out! It'd be over snottys fence if it wasnt so expensive Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk
Sounds like you might have a duff one to me with all that popping unless as you say you nudged something else while you were in there which could only be the carb balance?
Its how i prove thst to VWJim... I'll get the old 123 back on there again when its back after the weekend and get a curve on the + as close to curve 2 and film then both...if there's a differnce Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk
It could be worth checking the voltage on coil positive.. it might be misfiring a bit because its dipping out with e.g a Facet style pulsing fuel pump sucking current.. The misfires sound sort of regular... like its not necessarily the 123. Or you have a dodgy ignition lead or connection..
£28 GFS special offer dizzy picked up by Mrs Deefer this morning thrown in.. Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk
It was 12.4 untill circuit openend then drops to 10.5 when feeding the coil. My tester not sensitive enough to notice effect of fuel pump but after testing for and finding that problem at techenders with you a few years ago Ive always fed the coil via a ignition activated relay staight from the battery with nothing else on that circuit and not had that problem again. But as in the video above.. with nothing changed but the dizzy it idles fine so im confident in rest of system. VWJim has said return it to him for testing so hopefully he can find something Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk
You still have a rotor arm and distributor cap on that 123 , they could cause traditional flashover and leakage issues .
Dodgy cap according to Mr VWJim after his investigation.. returned one popped in set at 0(tdc) with the curve he has for his 1600 starts straight up and running with and revs just fine as put in. .. mighr leave ot a while before messing with curves.. Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk
