Okay, so after reading the novice thread I thought a new owners how to or things you need to know thread should be started so here it is - Obviously I cannot remember everything mainly because I don't know everything and also because my memory is rubbish so everyone can chip in here. I will start off by saying vw type 2bs are renowned for reliability if serviced regularly ( every 3000 miles ) A typical service which most owners can do consists of -- Oil change Oil strainer ( filter ) change Spark plug change or clean up Air filter wash out Dizzy cap inspection and or change Points check and or change HT lead visual check and or change Tappet gaps checked Brake inspection. They are also renowned for owners not doing the above which can lead to unreliability so check these things asap.
make sure your charging light and oil pressure light are working, if either come on stop immediately and check your fan belt - it is vital the fan belt is fitted especially on a type 1 engine as it drives the cooling fan as well as charging the battery, it is slightly less critical on a type 4 but always carry a spare.
after driving up a large hill and working the engine hard avoid the temptation to stop at the top and switch it off to "cool down" you'd do it a favour by stopping and leaving it running - sounds daft but it's true!
This is a cut out of a vw type 2 As you can see the engine is in the back and the controls are in the front, most things are operated from the front and consequently there are long linkages between the front controls and rear engine compartment. The heat such as it is comes from the heat exchangers which can clearly be seen slung beneath the engine at the rear, they are connected to the cab area via a long pipe which is beneath the cargo floor this can be made out in the cut out picture above.
Don't drive with only 3 wheels Check your oil before you drive any where not just at mot time Close your door before driving away Put your pop top down when leaving Yes it's normal not to be able to find gears
A type one or upright engine and it's exterior components - here is a picture of what ours look like - roughly! two wheels with belt at the front are buttom pulley wheel and top one is dynamo pulley wheel to the bottom right of of the pulley belt you can see the silver head of the dipstick , this is drawn out to check the level of oil in your engine. The bottom pulley usually has timing marks on it these are used to check the timing of your engine take note of them the orange thing on left is the distributor cap under this is a set of points and a rotor arm . connected to it are 4 high tension leads which connect to a spark plug, the distributor pictured has vacuum advance you will learn about these. The blue thing is the ignition coil. below the engine right and left are the heat exchangers behind the ignition coil and alternator encased in the round tinware is a oil cooler and engine cooling fan this also powers the air to the heat exchangers and on up to the cab area the black steel around the engine is called the tinware
Here is a link to a website that shows you in laymans terms how the heating works, it is not true that bay heating is rubbish - if maintained well it is very warm. http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/freemefromthishell/vw/T2%20Heating.htm
Contrary to folk law, your bus should steer properly, not conk out at every junction, it shouldn't stink of petrol and the brakes should work.
Although our engines are called aircoooled they are in fact air and oil cooled , you must have adequate oil in your engine and this can be checked against the mark on the dipstick.
The battery is in the rear engine compartment usually on the right hand side. sometimes there are two battery's the other one is a leisure battery. The screen washer bottle is in the cab area by the drivers feet and needs pumping with air to work , there is a rubber filler hose with tyre valve hanging from it and requires a bicycle pump or similar to pressurise it before it will work efficiently. The fuse box which holds bullet fuses is below the glove box on the front panel. The spare wheel is normally kept in the back boot/hatch area under a cover it will pay you to check this holds air and is in good usable condition asap. The brake fluid reservoir is below the drivers seat inside the cab. M plate This is a secondary vin type plate that identify's your model and holds codes to the day the vehicle was made and where it was destined amongst other things. M plates will be behind the passenger seat back rest on the bulkhead unless your vehicle was made after 1976 then it will on the air ducting by the fuse board M plate decoder thread here... http://thelatebay.com/index.php?threads/m-plate-decoder-here.36932/
ALWAYS apply a smear of Graphite Grease to the spark plug threads before fitting. When fitting the plugs into the heads, you cannot see what you are doing, put plug into deep socket and start it with your fingers, NOT with a rachet. Tony
The wiring on old type 2s has often been adapted by previous owners or garages you should check or have them checked by someone competent as soon as possible. Engine fires can happen check for fuel leaks in the engine compartment, also check below vehicle for drops of fuel which indicate a leak from the tank area, fuel lines can be replaced so too can the filler hose which has often perished. The main cause of engine fires is worn out breather hoses. they are all in the engine bay at the top. one is at the side of the spare wheel well and has a rubber hose that needs changing or inspecting asap. the rest are behind the firewall in the fuel tank area. They carry fumes from the tank to the carb. They perish and fumes can ignite. change or inspect them when you can.
There is often a smell of fuel or exhaust fumes in the cab area this can signify a exhaust or fuel leak this is usually coming into the cab area via the heating system again this needs to be rectified asap .
Always allow more time for braking as the braking system is not like that of a modern car, it should still stop you sufficiently
A few words of comfort A VW type 2 is a very simple and straight forward vehicle to work on NOTHING is overly complicated if you have a basic tool kit and knowledge you should be able to do a service and repair most things, if you have bought a van in need of restoration you will probably need to do some structural repairs these are best done by a person or workshop that has the specialist tools and safe working area to do this. if however you feel confident in your own abilities then help is at hand on this and other forums. Again most repairs are very straight forward and you will find working on a van does not require great mechanical knowledge. ALWAYS try to work safely and think about the job you are undertaking in advance, ask advice. No one knows everything. Sometimes a reply to a query may be very negative or off putting ask someone else or use your nous to work out if the poster is being overly negative, is a serial off putter or has a vested interest in posting a off putting reply. Forums are a very good resource for technical help most people speak from experience and are only too willing to pass on their own knowledge and experience.
ALL tinware around your engine should be there it is vital for cooling your engine there should also be a foam or rubber seal that connects and seals the tinware to the body this should be entirely intact. You should never be able to see the floor from inside the engine compartment, if you can something is missing from the tinware or you have no seal. Replace the part asap to avoid overheating and fumes making their way into your cab area.