Things new Vw bay owners should know thread

Discussion in 'Buying a VW Camper' started by Poptop2, Dec 16, 2012.

  1. A little turn on the main light switch makes your dash light up:)
     
  2. Poptop2

    Poptop2 Administrator

    I will say this - I am no expert. I have owned vans a long time and still ask basic questions I always ask those I know are clued up sometimes I ask the daftest question but I am simply making sure I am clear about the thing I am about to tackle or that is causing my van a problem ;)
     
    Last edited: Jan 26, 2015
    PMJM likes this.
  3. And if you have purchased a bay and have very limited funds re aftermarket bits, and having purchased a 1st 4 u bay you , as i did, want to enjoy every spare minute driving it/going to meets>do THIS!.purchase a quick release unit to fit to your battery terminal, cost ?about £12 , time to fit? doesn"t matter , please fit that one item cos if, as happened 2 me , your cab is filling up wiv smoke, that is not the time to begin trying to A>find a torch B>locate appropriate size spanner ,,get to rear ,open hatch and isiolate battery (whilst loom turns to muck.)that one purchase meant a "section" rewire , not a new loom.It makes sense.
     
  4. you can also put a couple of spanners that fit the battery terminals altenator/dynamo nut in tray behind battery with appropriate bottle jack and litre of engine oil and fan belt for emergencys, i run a small spot lamp with cover from the leisure battery terminals and hang it up safely in engine bay, for those dark moments ;)
     
    Ermintrude likes this.
  5. Poptop2

    Poptop2 Administrator

    Should I do more or is this enough for a novice owner?
     
    Last edited: Jan 26, 2015
  6. Appreciating that this is your own time, please keep going until your fingers bleed, you're bored, you run out if things to say etc. but the level you have pitched this at is great for a newbie.
    Little tips like the battery terminal, driving the bus and the dimmer switch on the lights are great. I have an owners manual but for those who do not, did they even know that the dashlights could be dimmed ?
     
    PanZer and JAMA like this.
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  8. dean_butler

    dean_butler TLB Design Guru

    My advice would be to do your research on every fix or mod and see if its capable by yourself before taking it apart and having a static motion bus.
     
  9. MorkC68

    MorkC68 Administrator

  10. Poptop2

    Poptop2 Administrator

    What they mean

    STOCK - As the van came from the factory or converters.

    FRONT BEAM- the front axle. this is a long tube under the front of the van that is connected to the chassis by eight bolts, it is the main steering component on your van, connected to the front beam are ball joints, shock absorber's, wheels and steering arm the beam is often subject to rot and will need careful inspection for signs of it, a front beam needs to be in good condition.

    REAR BEAM OR TORSION TUBE. This is similar to the front beam it connects the road wheels to the chassis and is the main component of your rear suspension. This too is subject to rot especially around the chassis connection points and needs to be carefully inspected.

    AFTERMARKET - This usually refers to items made by company's like Empi who supplied official vw upgrades of their own design. it can also refer to items supplied by vw as a upgrade.


    A word on stock. Stock works best on type 2 vans unless your van has been subject to a professional engine upgrade where the performance requires stronger braking and tighter steering performance obviously if you have a home fit or non pro engine upgrade it would be wise to seek professional advice re braking and handling.

    The reason type 2's have big steering wheels and slim wheels is for ease of handling, without power steering they help make the handling of your van lighter. Wider wheels can lead to heavier steering as the wider surface area grips the road more.

    Lowered beams. The reason people lower the beams is to improve handling after engine upgrades the stock handling system was designed to work with factory fitted engines any upgrade in engine performance may require braking or and handling improvement.

    In my opinion - The factory spec was ample for everyday driving and holidaying in your bus, it seems pointless lowering and adding wider wheels without having a need such as a upgraded engine , it also seems pointless if not reckless at times to upgrade the engine without doing the former or at least having the handling system checked out professionally.

    This is just my opinion it is not a hard and fast rule lowered does look good so too do wide wheels and other mods if done properly, my van came with a fourteen inch steering wheel and wide wheels - I found it very difficult to manouvre and noisy, it had a standard 1600 twin port engine which made the mods seem pretentious so i
    I returned to stock - as I say just my opinion!

    CONVERSION - This usually refers to the camping conversion typically Westfalia, Devon, Danbury etc , there were quite a few company's that converted vw type 2s to camper vans Westfalia were the original and official vw converter they used chiefly combi's or van that came from the factory with side windows fitted, some other company's used panel vans and cut their own windows out others used combi's from the factory.

    COMBI - a van that came from the factory with side windows also referred to as a microbus.

    PANEL VAN - a vw type 2 that came from the factory without side windows - a van.

    WALK THROUGH - the space between drivers seat and passenger seat that leads to the cargo area of your van. Some vans had no walk through and had a twin passenger seat.
     
    Last edited: Jan 28, 2015
  11. only need to remove 4 bolts to remove the engine ......and a porsch engine will fit staight in ;)

    ..........on a serious note

    carry a spare accellerator and clutch cable - Bay cables are a lot longer than any thing the break down services will carry and this could make the difference between a road side fix and a journey on the back of a low loader

    there are several differnt types of cables, make sure you measure yours to get the right ones
     
  12. if your gona have ta park it next to the house or a wall make sure you buy a left or right hand drive to suit. ???
     
  13. rickyrooo1

    rickyrooo1 Hanging round like a bad smell

     
  14. Poptop2

    Poptop2 Administrator

    POPTOP - The fibreglass opening roof on some conversions, there are quite a few variations get to know yours.

    VENTS - The air intake grill on the rear quarter panel , these take in all the air your engine needs to operate correctly never cover them when driving.

    EMPI'S - Normally aftermarket wheels although Empi made quite a few aftermarket VW items.

    TUBS - The extended inner body wheel arches.

    TUBBING - A modification sometimes done after modifying inner wheel arches to allow room for wheels after lowering and narrowing.

    NARROWING - Shortening the front or rear beam to allow wider wheels or to create a narrower look.

    STANCE - The height of the beams from the road and the particular look of a van.

    CROSSOVER - A van made between between mid 71 to feb 73 the period of change from prototype bay to late bay

    A , B , C AND D PILLARS. The upright sections connecting the floor panels to the roof section, the body panels and doors connect to these to form the complete shell.

    HIGH LIGHTS - The higher placed front indicators on late bays.

    PROPEX- A gas blow heater supplied as aftermarket.

    EBERSPACHER -- A supplementary petrol blow heater sometimes fitted as factory extra.

    WEBASTO - A supplementary heater supplied as aftermarket.



    I will add more as I think of them!
     
    Last edited: Jan 26, 2015
  15. if you decide to lower your bus you will have one uber cool looking machine thou your ability to get underneath it due to a a roadside breakdown to carry out a nec. repair will be compromised, (everything in life is a tradeoff.)
     
  16. mikedjames

    mikedjames Supporter

    Four bolts hold the engine to the gearbox.
    Three are easy to get at, the fourth has a nut facing the back beside the starter motor. It can be physically painful to get at this one.
    Another four hold the moustache bar at the rear of the engine to additional mounts.

    Non standard exhausts can get in the way of taking the engine out and putting it back.

    Despite what people say about the braking system, they can be adjusted to work quite well - most do not have servos so you have
    to stand a lot harder on the pedal to get the brakes work.

    It is certainly possible to lock the rear wheels, this is why there is a valve in the braking system to reduce this effect. Going through hedges backwards following hard braking is meant to be reserved for the Morris Metro.

    Any sign of a single chrome air filter above a single central carburettor is a sign that it will not run as well as it should.
     
  17. Without servo assisted brakes. I pump the brake peddle briefly just before using the brakes to get more feel when applying them. Works on most old motors :D
     
    Ermintrude likes this.
  18. Silver

    Silver Needs points/will pay!

     
  19. yup,i employ that breaking method as Beakey does,(discs at front, and rear drums) i do wonder what old bill would opinion if they ever behind me and see my brake lamps doing on-off-on..........but so far so good !
     
  20. Baysearcher

    Baysearcher [secret moderator]

    Don't jack them up on the jacking points.

    If you replace any window / door seals, buy the best you can afford.

    Not every "air-cooled specialist" has your best interests in mind.
     
    Bobreoc likes this.

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