What’s the part number on the head, it might not be an 1800? You’ll see the number under the rocker gear.
If the part number is 021-101-371S the inlet valve is probably 41mm but some had 39.3mm valves and the only way to know is to measure the valve.
This is not a later job. Part of adjusting valves is to check for this kind of thing. If you hadn't found this gap closed up on earlier services it's moved that far since the last and must have been idling/running lumpy? Like the others have said, stop driving and sort it now - in the worse case it'll cause the valve head to break off and go through the piston - you don't want that.
This sort of thing happens.. its a Type 1 but the general mess is typical.. https://www.thelatebay.com/index.php?threads/my-spark-plug-short-circuited.78848/
Yep noted. Do you think it would be ok to risk starting it to turn it round it’s wedged in between two hedges and wouldn’t be able to get the engine out. Guess I’m going to have to do that anyway.
I was at a Techenders when somebody turned up with a T4 engine where the "economical" LPG had burnt the valves to the point that the rocker arms were whacking the valve spring retainer. In order to shut it up, we stuck shims under the relevant rocker arm assembly base, and the bus went off on a tour of Scotland ... It got fixed a bit later , new head . Without any tears. Did the LPG actually really save money in that case ?
Sadly it was a late on Sunday " oh by the way my valves seem noisy ". So despite me saying it wasnt necessarily wise to proceed, we shut up the racket and the bus departed shortly after making a more typical T4 clatter. I dont know if it was down on power much, the owner wasnt complaining..
More likely the seat(s) were receding. In my experience (not guessing) the engine runs lumpy, you find gap(s) closed up, reset, then a few hundred miles later you're back to square one. Do it again and it's 50 miles. At that point you know you're already living on borrowed time and a stitch on time saves nine. It must be said that this was only a problem with T4 heads for a reasonably short production run and only happens on over-stressed/under powered buses or those incorrectly tuned or with air leaks. Only happened to me personally once when the rubber elbow for the servo vacuum split but I've fixed a few for others, there's usually an obvious cause. it doesn't just happen on it's own.
so head off next door but one has a machine shop and going to have a look for me looked slightly cracked see what he says after its cleaned up. i did find the pushrod knakered at the end. need to take the other head off to have a look. any tips for removing the head on 3/4 as the tine wear around the oil cooler is stopping it or do i have to remove oil cooler ?
Seems like that tin won't slip out but I'm pretty sure it comes out upwards it you unclip the flap and get it out of the way.
This is me taking the head off while dismantling as little as possible. I know I didn't remove the oil cooler itself but I might have at least loosened the fan housing and pulled it back a bit to get that tin out.
sorry one more question - should i replace all the pushrods? i guess measure them all first and check?
I'd just beg for one on here if the others are ok - all solid tappet type-4 pushrods are the same, hydraulic are thinner and steel. AFAIK you can't buy them new. £9.50 inc postage for used on ebay. I've bought from this seller before with no problem, think they must be a breaker. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/16445374...3946777986&abcId=9300856&merchantid=115504975 Edit : maybe measure yours, they have different length ones too - new one on me.
Engine back in. She lives was a dropped valve. I have had a tidy as well wanted to get the tin ware blasted but Swmbo wants to go camping very soonish. problem is I replaced the clutch and the clutch peddle is as soft as soft thing from the land of soft. what have I done wrong? Does it need adjusting I thought it Might at least engage a bit. thanks!
Probably needs tightening quite a lot. When it's tight enough the wing nut will be moving the lever as you tighten it and you'll need to clamp grips on the sq part of the cable to stop it twisting. Use your hand on the pedal to judge the 25mm free play when you get that far.
Ok spoke too soon back from work and nice piddle of oil under the oil filler tube. I have got a new gasket should I whack on some silicone to help proceedings? thanks!
