Type 4 1800 no 2 exhaust

Discussion in 'Mech Tech' started by S1mon, Apr 8, 2022.

  1. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    Check your exhaust isn't pressing on it. There is a certain amount of twist available when you fit the oil filler and if you innocently go the wrong way it may hit the side of the indentation in the exhaust. Been there, done that. I did use some gasket sealant when I refitted mine - belt and braces.
     
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  2. you know what i looked at that dent and thought when did i drop the exhaust!
     
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  3. All up and running no leaks - tuned my dells and running luvly need a tweak of the clutch still and maybe up the idle a bit.
    I have a 123 that I have been meaning to use for about 3 years. Brake check and service the rest of the van.
    What can I use to temporarily block up the heater riser hoses as left them off to get the van up and running. Thanks
     
  4. Ok so having a look at the 123 dissy I have it’s the + v v bluetooth version.

    I stuck it in and set the light to appear connected up, connected to the phone and starts on the button.
    Being the blue tooth one it does not come with any curves loaded. I thought I would check the timing and it appears to be at 0 degrees at idle.
    Although this is an electronic one and I can load a curve should I still adjust this to 7.5 Btdc?

    bugger all instructions from 123.
    I have worked out I can load a curve from a download on the website to a pc then to my phone then too the van.

    thanks for the information as ever.
     
  5. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    Depends :D
    You can set it to 0 and draw in a timing curve, or set it to 7.5 and draw an advance curve.
    I don't really understand how you initially set it - was the engine at TDC or at 7.5 degs?
     
  6. I set the engine to tdc then swapped to the 123.
    Turned it slightly as per instructions to see the led. I then connected it all up and started it.
    I put the timing gun on it just out of interest and it was at 0.
     
  7. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    Yes, it would be.
    Soooo.... if you drew a timing curve that from 0-1100rpm was 7.5 degrees it would idle at 7.5 degrees. You would then draw in a curve representing the actual timing.
    Alternatively if you set the engine to 7.5 degs and then turned the 123 to see the LED it would idle at 7.5 degrees. You would then draw an advance curve with 0-1100rpm at 0 degs advance over and above the 7.5 degrees you already biased it.
    Both ways would idle at 7.5.
    Hope that makes sense.

    There must be some sort of curve loaded in to the 123? You should be able to use the app to view it. You'll need the ignition switched on to extract the curve from the distributor.
     
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  8. Bloody push rod tube seal leak!
    Running a few revs too high just now so will tweak that later ( thanks for the extract time at home RMT!) but it looks like I have a leak. can I use loctite 5990 on it ? High temp gasket stuff
    Or is that a bad idea just want to use it and I think the o rings I had were pony!
     
  9. Steering link pin is their a kit do I need to ream it out like a splitty one?

    Thanks in advance!
     
  10. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    No, they are spilt bushes, no reaming required.
     
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  11. Link pin all done lot less movement in the wheel just need to tweak the steering box.
    Accelerator cable catching now and starting column dropped, more jobs for the weekend!
     
  12. mikedjames

    mikedjames Supporter

    If there is any silicone sealant residue, try cleaning it off, it holds the seal away from the metal leaving gaps.
    Unless the metal sealing surface has a scratch.

    I would try something non setting gasket sealant. pressure is low, temperature quite high, want it to flow into gaps and not fail completely if something moves too far (which is a problem with any silicone that cures)
     
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  13. All sorted runs luvly.
    Might do leaky gearbox cv joint when it cools down
     

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