Fuel in Oil

Discussion in 'Mech Tech' started by Little Nellie, Jan 11, 2022.

  1. Chrisd

    Chrisd Supporter

    I have the same carbs and had the same problem. Changed my pump to a Carter rotary 3.5psi and serviced as suggested by Wayoutwestie (8mm) and (crossed fingers) not had a problem since. Did this about 2 years ago. I'm about to put in a fuel cut off solenoid that I bought a year ago ......will get round to it soon :)
     
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  2. Doooowooo it! A very sensible upgrade, if I may say?
     
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  3. Dubs

    Dubs Sponsor supporter extraordinaire

    I have no experience of IDA, but from Marks reply, it could be a Weber thing?
     
  4. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    That is the difference I would think. Interestingly perhaps my Dells don't have this problem partly because of my fuel pipe run... maybe... I also have to refill the bowls if it's been parked up though like your good self have never actually looked and seen them dry. I have miles of fuel hose/3x different filters/rotary pump and a huge filter/regulator. The bowl on the filter/reg never fills up.
     
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  5. I had the issue with idf float valves so I recon it’s a Weber thing. Rotary rather than pulse type pump helps them last longer. Also regulated below 3psi.
    I also had the percolating problem happening when hot. Cured that with some substantial insulation base gaskets.
     
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  6. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    Hmmm the blaming of ethanol seems like an "excuse" to me. Is there no way to stuff a tiny o-ring into the float valve? brass/brass as a seal seems rather hopeful to me.
     
  7. matty

    matty Supporter

    I have icts and not had a problem in 4 years.
    Standard pump with cheep regulator set using a gauge to 3psi
     
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  8. mikedjames

    mikedjames Supporter

    From what I have seen, the valves all end up looking like that picture I took.

    A tall pointed brass element is pushed up a tube, seating on the shoulder of a machined hole, where it has some radial clearance to rattle around. You could use a rubber tipped valve ... but then it could potentially gum up or break down and stick the valve open big time. (Had that on a diesel car, the mechanical FI wouldnt stop when the rubber nosed shutoff solenoid valve turned off.. it was early days with low sulphur diesel which softened rubber..familiar ? . Had to stall the engine to stop it.)

    I just treat them as a consumable service item.
     
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  9. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    Yes, simply change every time your engine fills up with petrol. :)
    Seriously, in the OP's case it wouldn't even work to change it at a 3,000 mile service as his only lasted for 1,000 miles. How often should he change it - every time he fills up with petrol?
     
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  10. 7D4676D5-BDDB-4E14-B8D5-BFDEE90BACE6.jpeg
    This is one of the ones I took out the other day (replaced with slightly bigger ones for increased flow). Shows a lighter colour where it seats but no wear. These were in for maybe 10k miles? Fitted new same time as the huco pump so have never had to deal with high pressure. I pretty much always manage to get esso super when filling up so they won’t have had much exposure to ethanol either.
     
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  11. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    Maybe @matty and others without the problem either have older original carbs c/w older original float valves and were not tempted to change them just because there was a new one in the refurb kit? Perhaps replacements do indeed rattle around more which is the cause of the short life. Just thinking out loud.
     
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  12. I’d think original float valves might be correct. The quality of stuff in rebuild kits is…dubious.
     
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  13. Little Nellie

    Little Nellie Supporter

    Agreed, it’s pretty much impractical. If I’m keeping these carbs it’s a fuel cut off. Plus regularly remove the air filters, with the ignition on, and looking for drip through. Not good this is it o_O
     
  14. Little Nellie

    Little Nellie Supporter

    These carbs have 2015 stamped on them. So pretty new.
     
  15. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    Not great it's a work round. As Mike will attest, when the wear is bad enough they'll still over fuel and bog down at idle. Better that as a sign to replace them than an engine full of fuel though. :)
     
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  16. DubCat

    DubCat Sponsor

    No the buggy doesn't have this problem Andrew but that'll be down to the tank position I think. I'm running a Facet Posiflow on it and have actually removed the regulator as the pump works fine with IDFs as it is. The bowls are always empty at start after a lay up so I just let it prime before I start it. I've bought a solenoid for it but never got round to fitting it yet.
     
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  17. I would put money on the position of the tank in a Bay causing the problem…somehow. ICTs were used in loads of vehicles, and you din’t hear of old Bedford vans etc suffering from it.
     
  18. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    I agree, the answer is an underslung fuel tank between the chassis rails and a new cupboard where the fuel tank is. What were VW thinking!
     
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  19. Little Nellie

    Little Nellie Supporter

    And the last drive I did before I parked it up for the winter was to the Petrol station to fill her up - to get air out of the tank. Nice header pressure there :(
     
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  20. Little Nellie

    Little Nellie Supporter

    Think I’m correct that with fuel cut off solenoid, if needles do wear, any passing Petrol will be from idle circuit only? So won’t overfuel when on the move? Only at idle.
     

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