Fuel in Oil

Discussion in 'Mech Tech' started by Little Nellie, Jan 11, 2022.

  1. Little Nellie

    Little Nellie Supporter

    The gasket is 0.8mm thick
     
  2. Genuine question as I honestly don't know the answer, but how much of an improvement do a pair of ICTs really yield over a well set up and good condition OG Solex on a stock T1 engine?
     
  3. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    A bit nippier and you can rev it higher to wear it out more quickly. But at the end of the day it's a 1600 in a heavy van so the difference is not huge.
     
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  4. Faust

    Faust Supporter

    Could well do Dunc ...using that fine abrasive paste that you use when reconditioning fuel injectors .
    Not done now i wouldn't think , it was on the internal part of the injector . they were put in a special rotating jig and you just put the paste on your fingers and let it spin round ....deffo wouldn't do that now .
     
  5. Little Nellie

    Little Nellie Supporter

    @Zed, when I refill with oil, ‘leave plugs out and turn over until have oil pressure’. For this part do you suggest turn over by hand? If so only way I can measure oil pressure is by oil pressure warning light on dash, so not possible. So I assume best to turn by hand for a few rotations until oil starts to flow, to prime?
     
  6. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    No, just turn it on the starter, no way you'll get any oil flowing turning by hand, it won't suck it up the pick up tube particularly if fuel diluted oil has been in the pump. The idea of spark plugs out is to prevent compression pushing steel bits onto bearings before the oil gets there (if it's been washed out by the fuel contamination). The idea of getting the pressure light out is just to prove to yourself that the pump is pumping so the bearings are oiled before you actually start it up. Better safe than sorry. :)

    It'll be fine. :thumbsup:

    If you were seriously concerned, but I don't believe you need to be, or it was a new "dry" engine you could take out the engine, remove the stock cooler and dribble 1/2L of oil down the holes straight to the bearings.
     
    Last edited: Jan 15, 2022
    Little Nellie likes this.
  7. Ozziedog

    Ozziedog Supporter

    I seem to be a little late to the party but have these issues with my 34s too. I thought it was just me being a bit of a plank (again) after that little rebuild with my cam thrust bearing issues. I also did loads of research and found that W. O. Westy article somewhere and that did actually stop the dripping issues. I’m running 34s and a stock repro pump. I can remember setting my float levels possibly five years ago and no issues until this recent rebuild. First noticed this issue when I filled up the night before going off somewhere, initially I reset the levels but it still dripped from one carb then the other and I’m thinking I was going bananas then it improved when I drained most of the fuel from the tank. So over the course of the next few days , I ran around with a quarter tank max. Then I read this article ^^^ and this made a big difference when I reset them (again). I still haven’t plucked up the courage to Chuck in more than a twenty and usually it’s just a tenners worth. Before this issue I used to just fill him up then run until empty then do it it all again.:)

    Ozziedog,,,,,,,,,,,, glad it’s not just me ,,, convinced I was being a numpty :)
     
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  8. Little Nellie

    Little Nellie Supporter

    yep, I rarely fill the tank I only did this for winter storage. Happened after I did this, but needle looks like it was wearing anyway.

    So 8mm float height (WOWestie) may have eased things for you? Don’t think anyone can work the logic :confused:
     
  9. Ozziedog

    Ozziedog Supporter

    I’m thinking it appplies a little more pressure from the float to the needle or just max pressure applied as more fuel tries to enter.:cool:

    Ozziedog,,,,,,,,,,I’m also going a tad giddy with this thang :)
     
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  10. likely it’s the fumes :thumbsup:
     
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  11. Chrisd

    Chrisd Supporter

    I think I may have mentioned earlier, I also did this 8mm adjustment (without fully understanding it) and it was part of a package of things I did that solved any fuel in oil for me.
     
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  12. :thinking:

    Hmmm.. bus parked up for a few weeks, bowl is empty, fills up as the pump fires up, when the float is 8mm from the top it’ll stop the flow. I can’t see how it is putting more closing pressure on the valve vs a 6mm adjustment? Surely it’s the same push on the valve, but happens with a lower level of fuel in the bowl?
     
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  13. Ozziedog

    Ozziedog Supporter

    Im thinking it’ll be closed two mill before the six mill setting so if a little more fuel gets in it’s already pushing the needle into the seat so any extra fuel after that is pushing harder . This was my conclusion but it still messes with my head. I’m starting to go off my 34s at this exact moment :theforce:

    Ozziedog,,,,,,,,might head don’t need no more messin with :)
     
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  14. mikedjames

    mikedjames Supporter

    The thing is that there is an overflow from the float chamber into the carburettor bore. So if your floats are set say 4mm from the overflow level, thats 4mm of extra float displacement or lift force to shut the valve before overflow.
    If they are set 6mm below the overflow level then thats 6mm or basically 50% more pressure on the metering needle before overflow.
    But its also maybe 20% less pressure on the fuel feeding the main and idle jets as the fuel is shallower above the jet intakes in the float bowl.
    So you either need more revs or larger jets to suck the same volume of fuel into the air..

    The Weber pointy metering valve is a conical thing in a round hole, if it tips over slightly you get an ellipse in a round hole, which might need a bit of a wiggle or more push to seat it. All the waggling about as your engine idles cold on 3 cylinders at 500 RPM with no chokes does it no good..

    The Solex valves have a more precise guide for the valve, as there is just a small pin in a small hole so it has less tendency to lean over, but dirt can jam these open because of the smaller gap between the valve stem and its guide. So they also fail soletimes..
     
    Last edited: Jan 16, 2022
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  15. Little Nellie

    Little Nellie Supporter

    Agreed - Float would not seat deeper in the Petrol. But maybe something beneficial going on, as per recent messages…
     
  16. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    o_O
    In a word... no.
    Fuel is drawn through jets by vacuum, not pushed through by the head of fuel in the carb bowl.
     
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  17. Little Nellie

    Little Nellie Supporter

    If you set the float from 6mm to 8mm you’d have less volume of petrol in the bowl. I wonder if this lower level of petrol has less of vibrating effect on the float and on the needle?

    so imagine a shimmering pool with a float in it. Lower the fluid level and does it shimmer less. I reckon most of the wear is from vibration. So some critical oscillating geometric effect, related to bowl size and fuel depth?
     
  18. Little Nellie

    Little Nellie Supporter

    All dried out now so filled with a with a a can of SAE 30w that’d been lying round. I’ll use this as an engine flush. Took a while to get oil pressure but fired up and ran nicely. :) And relax
     
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