Can you give us the exact product details please? I'm going for a socket only set up and want as small physical size as possible (but maximum safety protection obviously)
You want a double pole 16A type B RCBO, summut like this. I have no idea who Cudis are. https://www.cef.co.uk/catalogue/products/921320-16a-dp-2-module-6ka-type-b-30ma-rcbo This is the box I put mine in. Very neat. Just a plastic DIN rail inside, no busbars, so you'll need to use some terminal block to connect up the earth. https://www.screwfix.com/p/wylex-ese2-ip40-2-module-unpopulated-din-enclosure/32311
CPN Cudis is supplier of electrical circuit protection components, founded in 2004 with headquarters in Bury, Greater Manchester. All their products are manufactured in China and sold under the CPN brand name.
Don’t forget to wear your trackie bottoms when you go in there. If there’s a plumbers merchants next door, why not pick up a copy of the latest Victorias Secret catalogue
1 gang 2pole rcbo https://www.consumerunitworld.co.uk/fusebox-16amp-mini-rcbo-type-a-rtamb16-4025-p.asp
Quick question on all this. In my consumer unit it asks me to wire the Earth terminal to a suitable earthing terminal on the chassis. But with rubber tyres all round this isn’t going to help if the bodywork went accidentally live (which is one of the main reasons for all the safety gubbins). As it will be totally insulated from ground. In my head the Earth is connected to mains input cable which would trip out the mains supply from the camp site. Am I being a buffoon? I’m going to do it anyway but was just wondering.
If you had a live chassis, you’d get belt as soon as you stepped out of the van (as would anyone who touched the bodywork). The whole van would be one big live terminal.
Yes I know. That wasn’t my question. I’m asking how wiring the Earth to the chassis helps when there are four rubber tires that insulate the van from ground and therefore would not help if the chassis went live. As I say I’m going to do it any way, was just wondering for my own understanding. If the Earth terminal was wired to the Earth in the mains input cable that should do the trick no?
Because an electrical fault (say your metal kettle in the van went live) needs to return a large current via earth in order to trip the breaker. The bodywork of the van needs to be connected to the incoming earth connection from the hookup. The RCD is the bit that protects you. If it detects a small amount of current that’s gone missing (likely through you), it will trip its breaker part and disconnect the supply. The RCD doesn’t rely on an earth connection.
Think of it as two parts: the MCB bit trips on a large current to protect the wiring (but not you), the RCD bit trips on a much smaller current (a few tens of milliamps) to protect you, hence the need for both.
Well after 3 years of asking questions, 3 different threads, and squirrelling away bits by buying them gradually so as to avoid suspicion from missus. I managed to fit it all bit by bit over the 2nd lockdown. Out with the old Dr Who transformer and 110v sockets and inlet socket and in with the new. I wanted to keep the original inlet flap so a lot of thought went into it. Thank you to @matty @Valveandy @snotty @theBusmonkey @mikedjames and so many others !! it all works superbly and the buzz socket tester agrees. Thank you again everyone.
