Got battery tested at halfords and it's good. New starter fitted last week and it started on the button. Now it won't even turn. Any ideas?
Battery clamps loose from taking battery out ? battery flattened because of standby load on battery e.g older car stereo memory. Lights left on? Ignition switch finally gave up in step with the starter ?.. happened to me. Both were dodgy, both needed replacement. If nothing lights up when you turn the key or try to turn on sidelights, check the battery clamps. If that is good then check the battery voltage.
Clamps are tight. Oil and batt lights come on as normal with a flash of the water temp too. Turn key and no movement at all. Battery full and charged, correct levels of water too.
does it click when you turn the key or is there nothing whatsoever? Nothing means a disconnect somewhere (Positive/Earth/Switch/starter/battery) Click usually means discharged battery (lights left on, parasitic drain etc.) or faulty starter solenoid. Most aircooled major electrical issues can be traced back to poor connections or corroded terminals/joints note that a 'good' battery, as tested a week ago, may not be a good battery...try substituting for a fully charged one before grubbing around for looose contacts
OK....check the terminals/connections on the starter (Big nut comes from battery, Little spade comes from ig switch)...chances are it's the little terminal either loose or corroded.... check that there is actually an earth strap between the gearbox and the chassis...they often rot off try this: clamp a jump lead between the gearbox and the chassis pull the king lead from the centre of the dizzy cap stick it in neutral and put the handbrake on connect a jump lead from the +ve terminal on the battery touch the other end to the spade terminal on the solenoid Don't touch the large nut terminal...you'll weld it on engine should turn over IF the solenoid/pinion is good....suggesting the problem lies with the Ig switch or the cabling from the switch to the solenoid if it still doesn't turn over, the solenoid needs fettling
You said water temp??? Is this a water cooled engine ? Which engine do you actually have, Does it have an immobiliser fitted?
its for the t25 - 1.9 wbx engine. no immobiliser, water cooled, carb fed. I am still getting a movement from the solenoid, although its not really a click any more, its like a dull thud, and the battery was tested about 10 mins before it was put on the vahicle. Although i did think i should buy a new one to check if it is that first off - but i think i trusted the test. I will probably go to buy the new battery, and see if they do refunds if i dont need it. (which i doubt) I will have a go at this later if the rain/snow/sleet lets up
Sounds like a low battery or a sticky starter. Charge your battery cheaper than a new one and if all is well after, fit an isolator switch on the battery if it's not your daily driver takes two seconds to fit and will stop any draining. You'll have to chase the drain if you want to ever fix it, usually your stereo as said before. Good luck
yeah the battery was fully charged prior to testing each time. I think i will try a new battery, then if its not that, look at wiring. The starter motor is brand new so i cant see it breaking within a week, if its only been started once.
buy some good quality jump leads ,if you have 2 battery's hooked up it is better than trusting one...make sure all the cables are on from the 12v end of the battery, one of these controls the starter...The starter needs earth and a constant 12v on the nut and when you turn the key 12v at the spade...
Dont be so hasty my new GSF start motor gave up after 2 days ! Dont buy a new battery either (yet)- can you ask a neighbour to jump start yours (decent jump leads also - no cheapo thin ones) If it does'nt start then you have a more fundamental issue? Presume the engine can turn over if you move it by hand or rock it back and forth in gear? Not seized? my T25 had a duff battery but still started (just) but it was 2lt aircooled petrol, not watercooled. Dont forget the battery is under your seat and the engine is 50 miles the other end, any duff corroded wiring etc wont help, plus we have had a lot of salt on the roads so maybe your earth straps need a clean underneath - engine, gearbox and the earth from the battery to the body? It will probably just be a simple fix - dont worry they are still simple vans to work on (in spite of new age radiator type engines!)
Ok heres what i did. Jacked it up and put on axle stands, got under it and followed the earth cable back into the engine bay which ended up in the black box in the left hand corner. Took the nut of, checked all the relevant bits and put back. At the starter the cable which goes onto the spade, has corroded a bit round the spade, and the spade can move a bit so i will replace that. I got my van next to it and put jump leads on. Starter whirred into action for a while but no start. Turned off key, then on again and nothing just a click of the solenoid. Checked voltage and it was 12.56 i think without jump leads on. With the jumps it was on 13.79.went back under, rechecked earth and the spade (which i think is definitely contributing to the problem) wiggled it a bit and went back to restart, starter motor whirred up but no start. Then waited a few and tried again, it started. Will change the spade connection out for a fresh one, think where the cable is exposed between the spade connector and the sheath, has let corrosion occur. I will eliminate this problem and report back. Thanks for all your help again boys.
yeah, just need to make it a consistent thing so it is reliable enough to sell. Need to sell so i can Red9 my bay!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! (and put an engine in it)
So I changed the spade connection. No different. If I turn the key I get a click. When I repeat this on and off the starter eventually kicks in after the 6th go. But not starting. Spoke to halfords about a battery and if I don't need it they will refund me so going to get one now.
Thats the signs its starter related mate. Been there a few times. Check the large woven strap between the starter and the nut on the solenoid. I've had replacement (rebuilt) starters with the cable so frain there was only a few strands left. Click is solenoid throwing the pinion into mesh but maybe its not getting enough power to actually turn the starter. Have you tried connecting to the spade terminal from an external 12v source (another battery) just to discount any voltage drop on the cable? If it works starter then its the cable or possibly igntion switch. Using a screwdriver (or a jump lead) connect between the big nut that the battery cable connects to and touch the spade connector. Starter should work as above test. To test starter turn on the ignition, then short the two big nuts on the solenoid with a screwdriver? Starer should spin without the pinion going into mesh (as solenoid is bypassed) if its OK. You can reach it from the engine bay without having to go under the van. Every so often mine will just refuse to do anything. No click, nothing. Connections on the back of the ignition switch can come loose.
couple of questions; if you put a known good+ve from a battery direct to the spade terminal on the solenoid does it spin up every time? does it also engage the flywheel (ie turn the engine over) everytime? if not, the solenoid is faulty.....if so you can rule out the starter.....it will be propbably the ignition switch contacts/cabling Not up to speed on the wasserboxers but if you have a consistent spark at the dizzy end, and they have an electric fuel pump this is where I'd start my checks
