What's the score with these cab step rubbers?

Discussion in 'Mech Tech' started by busby, Aug 20, 2013.

  1. [​IMG]
    Anyone know how to fix them in place? It has 3 rubbers buttons protruding which I assume go into holes which were original. I don't really fancy drilling( more chance of rust). Any ideas?
     
  2. Drilling holes and popping them in is best, IMHO. Means you can take them off to clean crud from underneath.
     
  3. sANDYbAY

    sANDYbAY On benefits-won't sponsor!

    There are three holes originally but in your case I'd trim the rubber buttons off and use double sided carpet tape.
     
  4. sANDYbAY

    sANDYbAY On benefits-won't sponsor!

    Oh we'll, there's both options in about 2 mins.
     
  5. Thanks both for the replies, just going to flick a coin ill let you know what I decide and stick another pic up.
     
  6. Poptop2

    Poptop2 Administrator

    Mark and drill - they should have holes there already - probably filled over!
     
  7. Judging by the creases in the step itself its a repro so any rubber put on there should be removable to allow periodic cleaning. Think I'd go with drilling holes and using the rubber thingies, if theyre a close fit then water entry shouldn't be a problem.
     
  8. Poptop2

    Poptop2 Administrator

    ooh - nice crease, I missed that!:eek:
     
  9. Drill the holes then you can spray cavity wax inside the step

    Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 4
     
  10. Sorry ..didn't mean to set you off :oops:
     
  11. Poptop2

    Poptop2 Administrator

    [​IMG]

    Looks like a shunt from front "A" post side to me!
     
  12. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    I'd leave them off altogether. Grit gets trapped under and grinds through the paint When I do a resto I lift them off complete with what's left of the steel underneath. As you have a repro arch even more reason, once the paints gone there'll be holes in 1-2 years. Judging from the rust stains it wasn't seam sealed properly or cavity waxed. No need to make holes for this, there are (should be) holes underneath that (should) have bungs in them - an oval and a round one.
     
  13. Thanks for all the replies, I'm not a welder so don't understand some of the comments. I realise the step isn't as neat as some I assume I'll be cutting those out and replacing in a couple of years. Good news is they're all projects until we sell them, then their someone else's project haha. Peace and love dudes.
     
  14. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    Get someone to waxoyl inside and it'll last, it looks recent. :thumbsup:
     
  15. It was done last year before I bought it. It's lasted 18 months so far. Who do you reckon will know how to waxoyl it properly? Saying that its waxoyled heavily underneath cos they mentioned it on the mot. I'm quite impressed really that someone actually took the time and expertise to fabricate all the arches on my bus.
     
  16. I only clicked on this thread cos I thought it said 'scone' in the title. Sorry to disturb you ... I'll step away quietly now ...
     
    sANDYbAY and icepug like this.
  17. bertie78 likes this.
  18. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    Cavity wax is what you want. Any body shop will be able to do it. If they're not equipped for this I wouldn't use them!
    To do this job they have to put some wax on the pressure pot, put the top on, plug into a compressor, shove a flexible probe through an existing hole as far as it will go, pull the trigger and draw it out. Takes 5 mins. Then clean up the equipment, which takes longer. Of course from their perspective, spend time talking to you initially, when you drop off and pick up, invoicing, fitting a tiddly job in etc etc and this is why you won't get charged a tenner. :)
     
  19. Thanks keith. Do I put it in all the creases? Will it stain the white paint or does it wipe off? Just haven't got a clue sorry, I'm electrical not mechanical. :)
     
  20. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    If only! These don't work. If you're lucky it'll just about dribble out of the end of the probe befor it bursts because you pumped it up too much. You must have a purpose made pressure pot gun and probe and a compressor. With the correct gear it atomises it and with the air added pushes it out though any gaps as well.
     

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