VW T2 Fuel Breather Lines - Connections

Discussion in 'Mech Tech' started by RyanHough, May 3, 2021.

  1. I recently started replacing the fuel breather lines, and found this article explaining how they all connect up (which is completely different to how our van is currently set up).

    — Our van is a 1972 Cross Over T2 - I think the engine is a 1.6.

    What I found:
    [​IMG]


    However, I’ve taken a picture to show how our van is set up (Line “b” was being replaced at the time of the photo and runs up to the metal fuel lines across the top of the engine bay (the “T” section).

    [​IMG]
    • A = Going to the bottom of the air/oil bath
    • B = Going to the “T”
    • C = Has a screw at the end of it
    • D = No connections
    • E = I’ve seen pipes running from the bottom of the air/oil bath to the bottom of the engine bay. I have a gap here but it doesn’t lead anywhere.
    Now these connections are very different to the first image I found online.

    My questions:

    1 - Is our van correctly set up (as quite a few bits are different to the other image? Or should I change to copy how it’s setup in the image?

    2 - Should A/B swap over as they’re the opposite in the link (or is there a way I can test it to know which way it should be around?)

    3 - Why is there a screw in the end of C? And is this right?

    4 - Should I run a pipe from E to the engine tin, and if so, is it just open ended (eg not connect anywhere) as it it’s just a gap and nowhere for it to connect to (see pic below).

    [​IMG]

    Appreciate your guidance!
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: May 3, 2021
    Bob Alatt likes this.
  2. Hi mate, for 3, the description says it’s for a dual vacuum advance dizzy. If yours is a single vacuum, then it needs blocking off - often with a screw in a piece of petrified vac hose - mine’s like that. For 4, the fresh air hose is supposed to connect to the ‘stove pipe’ tin which takes air warmed by the engine case - when activated by gubbins elsewhere in the air filter. It’s just an open tube - I think replacements are available if yours has gone. As for 1&2, dunno sorry. I have a paper air filter with fewer ports and wot not.
     
  3. @RyanHough

    I have no idea if the set up in the article is right or wrong, so I wouldn't try and copy that unless someone knowledgeable on here confirms the 'article' is correct.

    I can't help much as I have twin carbs and all of my air cleaner stuff has been removed, plus i don't understand it all anyway!

    Read this http://www.vw-resource.com/air_cleaner.html

    Take advice from someone with the same set up as you

    @redgaz and @mikedjames may be able to help as they were doing stuff with an air cleaner at the last techenders event
     
    F_Pantos and scrooge95 like this.
  4. scrooge95

    scrooge95 Moderator and piggy bank keeper

    Well I can’t say 100% that it’s right, but your top photo is exactly how mine is set up, and always has been.....

    [​IMG]

    If it’s wrong, then I’m all ears for the proper way :)
     
  5. mikedjames

    mikedjames Supporter

    I like the way you have done the hose in highlighter for the students, that makes it extremely clear, and yes it is 100% as a T1 engine with an SVDA and an oil bath air cleaner should be.
    Anything else is bodgery, and probably leading to overheating and poor idling..
     
    F_Pantos and scrooge95 like this.
  6. Looks fine to me. And it’s so...o.range.
     
    F_Pantos and scrooge95 like this.
  7. Thank you everyone for your replies, really appreciate it!

    What do you think is best? To replace the current pipes to the same connections they are currently going to, or try and copy the ones from the first picture?

    The only thing I cannot copy is the middle air/oil filter pipe to the “T” as I do not seem to have this connection on my air/oil filter by the looks of it.
     
  8. scrooge95

    scrooge95 Moderator and piggy bank keeper

    Needs a damn good clean, mind!
     
  9. Perhaps a light dusting?
     
    scrooge95 likes this.
  10. I think that it very tidy,
    But I wish they did a neater wiring kit/ setup for the oil temp sender
    I had to drape the wires similarly to what you have done
    When I did mine :)
     
    scrooge95 likes this.
  11. Will someone knowledgeable in these matters answer the OP please.

    He wants to know how to correctly connect stuff up.
     
  12. Don't know if I'd describe myself as knowledgeable but it should be exactly as in the first diagram. The OP is however missing the small piece of ducting/pipe which fits under the rear tin and allows warmed air to be drawn from around the head into the combustion inlet. I can take a photo of mine if required :thumbsup:
     
    paulcalf likes this.
  13. theBusmonkey

    theBusmonkey Sponsor

    The op has had loads of answers haha.
    Pay your money, make your choice x
     
  14. @Devon233 A picture would be greatly appreciated please!

    As mentioned, I cannot do the “C” connection in the first image as I don’t have that on the oil/air bath filter - any ideas?
     
    paulcalf likes this.
  15. Here ya go :thumbsup:
    [​IMG]

    'C' should be connected to the tank breather (T piece up on the engine bay roof). The connection at the air filter end should look like this...
    [​IMG]
    It is to apply a bit of negative pressure to the breather system and allow any petrol fumes to be consumed by the engine when it's running.
     
    Last edited: May 3, 2021
    paulcalf and F_Pantos like this.
  16. The breather situation is mostly to do with the emission control legislation being brought in at the time. My 73 is slightly later than your crossover so it's possible the connections may be slightly different I guess. The way you have it now however, the warm air intake system cannot work on several levels.
     
    paulcalf likes this.
  17. Is there a difference between oil bath and paper filters...should the line come off the inlet manifold.
     
  18. The manifold vacuum line that operates the flap in the air filter can either come from the manifold (as per @scrooge95 ) or (later) from a port on the rear of the carb. Both do the same thing, either will work.
     
    wendygun likes this.
  19. Posting this for reference as it might be of use to someone sometime - I think it details a type 4 engine though? It’s on the inside of my deck lid. 7FC1CB0F-2BDE-496A-B334-F73D9CEC0F3F.jpeg I don’t recognise some of the labelled parts. Happy vaccing…
     
    paulcalf likes this.
  20. That's ok then.... haven't done mine wrong.
     
    scrooge95 likes this.

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