Im thinking of putting a vinyl carbon pattern wrap on the Reimo roof on a T5, the widest I can find that M3 1080 vinyl is 60 inches mixing old and new money that makes it about 10mm short at the widest point, Im wondering if anyone had used it before and would it stretch that 10mm over such a wide amount of material, and if it would could distortion spoil the effect. Cheers Dave
Vinyl over that distance should easily stretch 10mm, you could easily get 20-30mm to be honest. The problem you will get is distortion as you mentioned, you'll have to be very uniform across the whole pattern to get it right but depending on the actual pattern you could get away with it. Especially on a roof as its not something people stare at all the time, (unless you're lying back thinking of England). The main issue you will get is that vinyl always wants to return to its true size so the glue / adhesive etc will have to be very strong, not affected by heat etc and remain solid once dried or it will start to slip back.
we helped a friend do a new beetle roof which has a compound curve, it needed patience and a heat gun [gentle heat] there is a little distortion in the weave.....but if you look at a real carbon bike frame it has distortion. That M3 is a good 'cast' vinyl and good to use. If you get some Rapid-tac solution and get both surfaces wet then get the biggest flatest area into position, and squeeged out first ....you can spend all day gently warming and wrapping the curved bits...don't be tempted to pull it just keep squeeging down til it sticks. Get a squeegee with one fabric edge so it doesnt leave scratches. If you do have to slit and join it it probably wont notice on a roof
I went on a vinyl wrap course recently (long story, was there to help a friend wrap his T5- I'm not a vinyl wrap professional) and can share what I know. Material - seemingly the thinner wrap is not the best way to go, we had some thinner carbon for the bumpers and the instructor said it has less adhesive in it, so thicker is better. Stretching - agree with MadFrankie - 10mm is nothing for this material, when warm its incredible pliant - I'd suggest working from the centre out and putting the stretch into any curves or corner edges, it hides pattern stretch and genuine Carbon weave distorts over corners anyway i.e. the lattice, unless ultra tight weave, doesn't maintain perfect square corners. Shape - the stuff we used triggers 'plastic memory' at temperatures above 80 degrees Celsius - i.e. if you use a head gun and take it to 80 degrees the plastic remembers that shape if its heated up later by sunlight etc - so if its stretched and then heated, it wants to return to the unstretched shape unless you do the 80 degrees thing which will make it want to return or maintain its stretched shape. Bubbles - most bubbles occur on the radius of corners etc and can be small if spatula'd out - to get the stuff to maintain shape in tight corners etc you need to do the 80 degrees heat gun thing - but make sure you use a scalpel or pin to pop the bubble first else the heat gun expands and pops a larger hole. Finally - the wrap is incredibly hardy as a material - make sure you get the roof meticulously clean and work with a partner in a clean environment - warm sunny day would be best if you can be inside!
I used gold carbon vinyl wrap on my poptop when I re furbed it! I found it quite easy to use (my first try with it) although with larger size it helped with an extra set of hands to apply it! I used heat to mould it over the pop rivits (hair dryer) and it works really well. By hippyhough at 2011-09-20 And as a bonus the top is now super waterproof!!! ;D
