Van won't Start

Discussion in 'Mech Tech' started by Paul Jones, Feb 25, 2019.

  1. Hi Guys

    Having problems with van power going to coil, but as soon as you turn ignition on all power goes
    Has anyone got any ideas

    Cheers Paul
     
  2. The power comes from a connection on the starter motor. This can (and did on mine!) corrode and/or come loose. Also the ignition switch itself can corrode, the replacement is cheap but I found it a bit fiddly to change.
     
  3. Most likely ignition switch
     
  4. If key is badly worn and you have large bunch of keys a wiggle in or out could get you going till you have chance to get a proper look as above ?
     
  5. Have ring none vw garage and told them but got told its not that as they have one wire running from ignition to coil which is live, they spent all day Friday on it and are still none the wiser.
     
  6. Try running a wire (carefully!) straight from the battery positive to the coil positive. Does the engine run properly now?
     
  7. make sure its out of gear
     
    paradox likes this.
  8. It’s a fault that I’ve come across a few times.

    If yours is a later bus where a multiplug is used on the ignition switch
    Then you can unplug the wiring from the switch and let it hang down outside the cowling
    Plug a new switch in then using a flat blade screwdriver to turn the ignition switch.

    If it doesn’t start then your fault lies elsewhere.
     
  9. matty

    matty Supporter

    If they spent a whole day and can't find the fault you need a new garage
     
    mgbman, Molteni Mike and JamesLey like this.
  10. A
    Agree the fault is with the garage
     
    mgbman likes this.
  11. Thanks guys will give that a go, does anyone know a good garage? Need van on road ASAP. We live just south of Bath and will need to tow it there! Thanks
     
  12. matty

    matty Supporter

    Have PM you.
    I’m near and may be able to give you a hand sorting it.
     
  13. mikedjames

    mikedjames Supporter

    Check under the dash that the wires that go from the ignition switch into the connector block full of spade connectors just under the dash behind the steering wheel are all actually plugged in, and you didnt knock them out by hooking them with something spiky on an aftermarket under-dash tray. Done that.


    The ignition switch has two switches in it. One comes on in RUN and START position, and goes back to the black wire on the coil. This powers the ignition.
    A second contact comes on in START position, and this goes back to the starter solenoid.
    What happens is that the first ignition contact burns out in the ignition switch and so when you turn the key, it turns the power on only in RUN position, and off in the START position. So the starter turns and there is no voltage on the coil. If you are lucky, it fires as you let go of the key and it returns to RUN with the engine still spinning on the starter motor.

    There are two fixes both short term.
    1. Put key in run position. If the indicators work and / or the reversing lights work then you can bump start it, or use the hotwire (see below) on the starter motor.
    2. Connect a wire securely to the black connection on the coil. Put a crocodile clip on the other end and clip it to battery+. Your ignition will then be on without the key. Now turn the key to start the engine as usual.
    To stop the engine , disconnect the added wire from the battery.
    If it wont turn over by turning the key to START, then you can put the key in the RUN position in the front end (UNLOCKING THE STEERING LOCK !!!) and hotwire it by running a wire from the spade tag on the starter motor and tapping it on battery + to operate the starter (see the remote starter thread recently )

    Should not need to tow it..
     
    Last edited: Feb 25, 2019
    paradox likes this.

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