I wonder if anyone can help. As a bit of background, my van was perfect until a breakdown where I discovered the right-hand brake booster elbow had come off, which caused stalling. After this, I did my valve clearances and checked the timing (was good, so no adjustments made). After that, the van went well, but with popping on overrun. So fast forward a couple of months and I started to smell fuel from the right-hand vent when parking. Fuel was leaking from the right-hand carb, so I took it off and replaced the main gasket and the one on the accelerator pump side of the carb (square). I also replaced the red washers on (what I think is) the main jet and the bolt thing that sits next to it. I also disturbed the choke but refitted it by making sure the coil bit had caught on the lever then turning it to where I remember the cover being before I heard the twang. So, my question is, what might now be causing the van to judder then immediately backfire once up to about 40mph? Could it be: 1) The choke being refitted wrongly. 2) The accelerator spring not having been seated properly. 3) The accelerator pump linkage having been disturbed. 4) Contamination in the carb 5) The float level needing resetting. 6) Something else Thanks for any insights. Oli
Have you got any play with the throttle spindles, wiggle one to see, doesn't need much to upset the way that the engine runs. If noticeable best to get the carbs re-bushed. Also make sure that all the wires are snug to the carb connections.
You didn't say whether you've cleaned/replaced/ checked the float shut off needle and checked float height?
None of the above, as all the online articles I found didn't say how to check or adjust the float height, only that it should be done.
If carb is visibly leaking first thing to check is the float cut off valve, take the top off blow through the fuel inlet, lift the float until it stops you blowing through. If it doesn't the needle valve either has carp in it or needs replacing, if the float hits the top of the carb before it shuts off bend the tabs down to lower it!
Awesome. It wasn't visibly leaking, but it was definitely damp underneath. Does the Solex 24 PDSIT 2/3 (this is 3, as it's the right carb) have tabs to bend?
Not sure, some are plastic some have metal tab, also check the float actually floats not got a hole in it
Is the damp definitely petrol?.. I was worried when I set mine up first after a rebuild but they get quite a lot of condensation on them from all the vaporising going on inside..mostly on the manifold but a bit on the carbs too Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
When you rest the valve clearances, were any tight? If yes, check again, you may find the same valve(s) is tight.
As we found on Saturday at techenders ...these carburettors are fully documented in the Bentley manual. Section 3 page 25 setting the float height. And its done with different thickness washers under the fuel valve. Anyway pops n banging on the overrun... idle circuits not working dirt or missng power to solenoids.. . or it might be the throttle plates are now closing fully and messing with an idle screw setting that was a bit off before you disturbed the carburettors by taking them off and putting it back in a slightly different position.
I've shewn two left handed ones here. One on the carb and one off. The spindle is the rod that goes through the body with the brass butterfly attached. Make sure that the play up and down and sideways etc is minimal. Any atmospheric air sucked down the shaft will play havoc with the running of the engine. Get them re-bushed if possible. Not sure who does that but I'm sure someone on here will know. Also check for air leaks elsewhere on the manifolds and exhaust.
Very good point from @nicktuft there. Exhaust leaks usually get overlooked. Check ex. manifold gaskets too, but may not be the cause in this case.
Hi guys. Afraid I've only managed to remove the carb this weekend and have another look at it. Here's what I know: The float definitely floats. There's very little play on the spindle. I move it and I can just feel a slight click with next to no movement. When I reset my valve clearances, I messed up last time by converting between metric and imperial badly, so ended up resetting from scratch. Therefore I do not know if any were tight. I ran the engine and removed and reattached the power to the fuel cut-off solenoid on the right-hand carb with no effect. Is there any way I can check the float level with the carb off the vehicle, as I may as well do this during the dark evenings in the week. Unfortunately, I get home just as it's getting dark in the evenings so no time for playing in the week. Cheers Oli
Apologies for dragging up my old thread, but I just noticed this. Which of the these three symptoms could be attributed to this hole: 1) Occasional hesitation 2) Backfire through the exhaust straight after desitation 3) Popping on overrun Is that bracket and nut meant to be there, or is it part of the dodgy looking repair that seems to have gone on with the pop rivets?
