I'm having difficulty finding some information or a soloultion (if there is one) to my problem. I have oval exhaust flanges on my cylinder heads. It appears the PO has been more than a little enthusiastic in the process of removing the copper sealing rings. It has left me with some significant gouges' in the faces that look like a broad screw driver has been used to remove the rings. Is there a way of making good this damage prior to assembly? Will the copper rings take up the damage? Sorry I have no photos at present.
... doesn't sound good.. even a well annealed bit of copper gasket wouldn't fill a big hole.. high temp gasket sealant? Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
If the gouge is not too deep you could get it machined, or welded and machined if it’s much more than a scratch. The copper gasket won’t seal if there is a gouge and HT sealant is unlikely to work for long. Fix it while it’s easy, if it leaks on the car it will be much more work.
Have only played with square ports so far .. but will be finding out more of these soon..is there room between the 'lugs' and head to let you pull the exchanger up if you machine them out? And if there is do both ports the same to help it seat? Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
There is some room but not a lot – don’t ask me how much a lot is because I’ve never measured it. Let’s say the head needs 1mm machined off to clean it up, 1mm could then be cut of the exhaust lugs, but whatever is machined off of one port the same amount must be machined off the other. You could also just buy another head.
One low tech idea could be to bed the copper gasket onto exhaust paste to fill the gouges just before doing up the nuts on the studs.
Thank you all for your input, you're all shooting blind with no photo, I understand that. I'm having the heads crack tested atm, so if they are clear and no additional cost needed, it may be worthwhile welding and machining. I'll get some photos and resubmitt. Thanks again.
whilst welding sounds like the solution welding dirty aluminium down a tight hole is not the easiest thing to do , you will still have to machine it anyway so I`d just machine them both and forgo welding
IGot a head and an exchanger in the garage.. step in the head to stud platform is about 24.5mm ..end of exchanger to lug is 25.5mm with a 2mm copper ring give got about 3mm to play with before they meet .. but I'd take same off lug as off head to be safe if you can find a place to do it. Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
The lugs on the heat exchanger have lots of meat on them - if it were I, I'd suggest grinding some metal off the back, and the machining the head down to remove (or lesson) the indent.
