Towbar electrics

Hi folks, getting some jobs done on the bus for after lockdown!
I've fitted a witter towbar from JK which on (relatively) hassle free!
Trying to wire up the 7 pin electrics now..
I've read a few threads on here and my plan is to use spade connectors on the left hand rear light cluster..
My stumbling block is where to wire in the right hand indicator.. Do I have to run a separate feed back over to the right hand cluster?
Any pointers greatly appreciated!

 

Yes.

 

Run it up over the engine lid, where the existing loom goes.

 

I've connected into the right hand side. All the left side wires go via that side so I've spliced in there. You'll need to have separate feeds for left and right tail lights as well as indicators.

 

Is the diagnostic wiring still in.. there's one in there... but quite thin..

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

 

Yep, connecting on RHS is better.

 

RHS it is then..

 

But avoid the Scotchlocks unless you want it to look hammy.

 

Avoid Scotchlocks if you want it to be reliable.
Strip the insulation, twist the stripped end of a wire tail onto it, solder it and tape it with self amalgamating or use liquid tape.

 

scotchlocks for the win for me. i wired mine up temptorarily 6 years ago and they are still going strong, i use the towbar regulalry. the connectors are all inside the engine bay though

 

Scotchlocks that’s swearing to an auto electrician. Biggest wiring bodge ever invented

 

I usually just join them where the loom splits from the right to the left lights.

 

My bus had scotchlocks in various locations and they never let me down, just looked pants. I feel the same about the more modern coloured insulated spade connectors. They work absolutely fine but I prefer the look of the original type uninsulated connectors.

 

I confess I used new Scotchloks where the old ones had been. I don’t like them, but they work just fine.

Proper 3M ones are better.

 

If you have the diagnostic plug in the engine bay you can splice all the required connections from there.
Solder and heatshrink the connections to avoid problems in a few years.
By all means add a molex connector or 2 so you can remove the tow bar easily for the rust repairs as and when required.

 

Thanks for the replies and advice.. Ended up going up through the left hand battery tray through a small drilled hole that I'd drilled before I asked! Connected to back of left cluster with piggy back spades and ran a couple feeds over to the right cluster for right tail and indicator, all tested with the bike rack and working

 

If you use then regularly the Scotchlocks will stay attached, every time the connection goes a bit dodgy it will arc and weld up again.

Leave them for ages the dodgy connections corrode and stop working.

Like relays where there is a minimum current for reliable operation based on micro welding..