After market Tinware not lining up, if fitted in line at pulley then is tight over to the left, if central both sides so can fit seal not central on pulley and would need to chop it up. How far can I travel without the rear tinware? Heritage: Rear Engine Tinware Without Heat & Without Preheat
Yes, its just aftermarket No holes same as my fan shroud. https://www.heritagepartscentre.com...ware-1600cc-without-heat-without-preheat.html
Is it actually wide enough at the rear (allowing a bit of a slot for the foam)? Why has your tin behind the pulley got a big bit cut out of it?
Have you got an original to compare it with? I'd send it back to Heritage as not fit for purpose (if you're quite sure it is for a Bay). Have you got a link to the Heritage page?
https://www.heritagepartscentre.com...ware-1600cc-without-heat-without-preheat.html Only place I could find without the holes.
I just have to wait and ring them tomorrow and see what they have to say, was planning a trip out though but unsure about travelling too far without this piece fitted.
It looks like its the right width, there should be a gap all the way around for the foam, but it does look like the hole to the left of the central tinware is not in the right places. Which is strange. Maybe its the central breast piece tin that is wrong. I just took this picture of mine, its not symmetrical around the pulley. I have highlighted the edge of the tin. (Hot air feed moved over to make picture clearer) If you attach it at the edges and somehow on the right hand side of the pulley, looks like the two holes on the right hand side are in about the right place, put the foam in around the edge, even if there are some gaps the engine bay will still be fairly cool. You could probably fill any gaps on the left with a bit of tin sheet or aluminium bolted on . You could drive it on non dual carriageway roads pretty indefinitely if the tin is there with a few gaps with air temps around 10C. Without the tin you might have trouble driving slowly when it sucks the hot air back in.. Those heat riser holes are also useful in stiffening the installation- brackets from there to the cylinder head tin stop the back edge flopping..
If I line up the edges ready to take the foam seal the central pulley section is as per the photo, so would need to chop something, or do i speak to heritage. I think would need to chop out for the exhaust bolts, just not sure.
It seems to me more like the cutout in the centre part of your tinware is wider than it should be , so when the edges are correct none of the screws lines up with any of the holes in your tinware. You may well have to clearance it round the exhaust, with a flat piece of tin there. With the stock tinware, the heat risers come up through a raised part of the stock tinware (it originally held a little fibre gasket for the heat riser to go through the tin) , so the tinware also misses the top exhaust stud. And there is actually a gap between the tinware and the cylinder head tin, that is covered by a little bracket (which also does a good job of making the rear tin less floppy) .
Hello Barry, Looks ugly Keep in mind you have a air cooled engine - if the tinware is not correct the air flow and cooling is not complete (it wasn't decoration), and in the worst case scenario, hot exhaust gases from below are even drawn into the cooling system and life-threatening in the heating system. Yes, you can drive it for a few miles, but make sure you have fresh air in the front and watch the engine oil temperature. regards,
Send it back and search out a genuine one Repro tinware is always an awful fit I wouldn’t risk your engine by driving without the rear tin.
Thanks everyone for the comments (except rsbadura). It wasn't the tinware but an alignment issue caused by the engine support bar. This has been resolved and everything is looking sweet, hopefully get a nice weekend like this for techenders.
