Pamps has a t4 lump, Not sure if its 1800 or 2000, no engine number, on log book as 1800, but the clutch was the larger one, when i had it replaced, how can you tell just buy looking?). Any way ,it runs well, had a 2 year lay up, but giving it some beans again. I re set the points, to 0.5mm, and starts first time , and as i said , runs well, and cool. BUT, sometimes in the morning, first start, I depress the throttle, and turn the key, and it turns half a turn and then struggles . So I turn back the key and next time it spins fine and starts. Its as if its a tad too far advanced? Battery is good. no other issues. Dont have a tach or dwell meter. The points had a pimple on them, and were prob .35/.4mm, which is strange as I'm running an old 'sparkrite' ignition piggy back system, so i didn't think enough voltage went thro the points to burn them.
You need to check the connections on the back of the starter motor. This does sound like a possible symptom of a poor connection to the solenoid. Its the 5.6mm spade connector on the back of the starter. Just give it a clean and a tighten up if it is loose.
This could be a dirty ignition switch which is wearing out. The second time you move the key it wipes contacts you cleaned with the first move of the key. Or its leaking petrol from a carburettor if it has carburettors and one cylinder is partly filling up with petrol on standing causing high compression stopping the starter , the air in the cylinder leaks past the petrol soaked piston rings reduces the pressure, so the next attempt gets past the compression then gets spat out once the engine is spinning. Check your oil for petrol contamination if this is the case. Your engine will have a shorter life to needing major overhaul if it is leaking petrol.
Ok thanks, I'll check the starter cables, and the oil level. Only started doing it again since I opened up the points a tad tho. Has done it before, in the past, tho.
This morning, didn't push pedal down, and switched ' sparkrite' to off, so as to illuminate timing issue. Spun over freely, but that tells me nothing as a one off. Oil smelled like oil, prob due a change, and below max line, so not a leaking carb.
I know you don’t have timing instruments, but have you checked the timing statically. That doesn’t need anything sophisticated. Most buses are set at 7.5 degrees BTDC, though there are some oddities on US buses. Set the mark on the pulley to the mark on the timing scale and look at where the points are. If they are just about to open then you're on track - remember the distributor is rotating clockwise. If they are out and you don't know what to do next come back here. Otherwise you've eliminated the timing aspect.
