The Key Question e ernal wearv

Hi, just reading another interesting post at the moment about keys and lock cylinders and thought it might apply to me.

Issue I have is both cab door locks open with keys, but the button only rises on the VERY last part of the key turn. To the point if you turn the key normal speed it won’t open, if you turn it gingerly the button slow lifts and unlocks.

Before I investigate, does this sound like new barrels, or could it be some other internal wear in the mechanism?

Thanks

 

Worn out lock mechanism.

 

Ta, any idea which part to focus on - the lock barrel etc?

 

Check the pin on the end of the lock barrel for a wear grove where it works the lock fork.

 

There is also a lever that lifts up a part of the lock in the mechanism, it runs in a slot in a another lever. On all my drivers side locks, that slot gets hammered, and gets longer.
On at least one, you can see burrs where the slot is several mm longer than original.

 

Bingo! Took the door trim off and observed the action of the lock from inside. Key and barrel pin turned fine but receiving mechanism was resistant. Bit of burring though

Squirt of WD40 and entirely fixed.

Question - is W40 going to work long time after I’ve sealed the door back up. Or is there a better oil for this? I’d prefer something sprayable for the access issues here.

I have some lithium spay grease?...

 

WD40 is not designed as a lubricant, it is a Water Displacement spray apparently the 40th formula they tried. Spray grease should be better, I've just done some of mine and I ended up using a graphite loaded grease that I had in the workshop, good luck
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