Discussion in 'Modified Shizzle' started by Kruger, Apr 8, 2018.
There’s a 757 box on eBay. You can come whenever you like.
Been doing a few bits,
Radiator/scoop pack is almost done, just a bit of final finishing/fitting required with welds to tidy as my tig welding isn’t always pretty, and I’m going to mount some rivnuts into the chassis rather than hang it from stud.
Used a 22mm open pipe clip either side, and welded some rod to the scoops forward edge, the back edge is hooked into a channel and will only drop away if the pipe clips release, it should make the scoop sacrificial if it gets hit - I’m going to fit some stainless rope restraints which will catch it and prevent other people getting hit or running it over.
Rubbish picture, but shows the general idea.
Started stripping the parts gearbox 754 for the output drive stubs, as the later 758 box I’m fitting doesn’t use them, but the Subarugears kits require them to mount the original cv joints, using Subarugears Vw cv flanges, was also good to be able to open and strip a box down without worrying about breaking/losing anything as it all scrap now!
The 2 stubs I need,
Hopefully have a go at clearancing the case of the new gearbox and fitting it all together tomorrow.
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Keep the cups and seals from the 754 box as they may be a different size on the 758.
Also keep the nosecone/centre diff housing and gear selector rod. I will buy it off you.
Didn't realise you had a spare box, you could strip it and use that for mock up, save me bringing mine down?
Oh and drain the oil from your new box!!! They come filled from the factory
An overdue update! (I’ll add some pics in after)
After the initial frenzy of cracking on with the engine swap, I got abit busy working on other people’s buses so put mine on the backburner... Then to further delay any progress, thought I deserved a months holiday in Thailand!
Been back 2 weeks now, and found some determination, and motivation to get it done before it starts getting cold again!
Jobs keep getting added to the list of things to do though and it seems it’s turning into another restoration!
Engine mounts fabricated and setup using the gearbox carcass I’ve got, and and a bare engine block on loan from @pkrboo - cheers mate!
Set the mounts to use the trimmed down Subaru cradle.
Standard measuring instrument for showing ground clearance.
Wiring harness/relays/Ecu etc mounted to a panel within the spare wheel well.
Cross member in front of rear torsion tube repaired - after some careless jacking/lifting by me, used some threaded bar bolted through the crossmember to pull it back into shape against a bit of pallet racking, reinforced where the heater tube was removed and also new holes cut to run all the new water pipe work through it, removed the torsion tube-chassis braces which hold the heat exchanger cables - this allows me to run the radiator hoses over the torsion tube rather than run them under it.
Bought a T piece fuel tank outlet to use for the fuel return, rather than putting a return into the tank or filler neck, read plenty of people saying they work on fuel injected engines, so will try it. Fuel pump and filter still to mount.
Run into a slight problem with using the Subaru gearbox, I’ve got C notches cut into the rear chassis legs as I’m running quite low, as the Subaru gearbox sits about an inch or so further to the rear, the notches for the driveshafts now need moving to suit - or do I just raise the bus up - think this will be more determined by the radiator scoop ground clearance.
Repaired the front pedal belly tin I had but had never fitted, decided to fit it now as the heater and hydraulic clutch setup will be located there.
Been looking at the T7Design range of heaters as don’t think the cheap Chinese one I’ve already bought is man enough to push the air from below the cab floor up to the dash vents.
Hydraulic clutch master cylinder mount made by adding some box section to the front of the original clutch arm/pivot, seems to work perfectly but can’t test fully until the gearbox is in, just need to drill a hole in the cab floor to access the reservoir cap, kunifer clutch line run down existing cable conduit.
Had a nightmare trying to pull 7 core trailer cable (for the extra dash lights, water temp gauge) through the old heater cable conduits, so after about 10 attempts all with snapped cables Ive given up and will just cable tie it to the outside of the conduit.
Hopefully get all the brackets, mounts etc to the powder coaters this week.
Fuel tanks still needs removing to try and calibrate the newish sender.
Underside needs prepping to stone guard and paint.
Gearbox still needs converting with the Subarugears kit, and I’ve still not done anything useful on the engine yet!
Ace work @Kruger . Not sure I understand it all tho!
Raise up your van!! Stock height vans are the best
I agree looks extremely difficult and I don’t understand any of it either but great work, makes my oil leak problem a bit pathetic
It’s easier to park up in my workshop when low!
Pics added - hopefully the pictures paint a thousand words!
Ace work as always K.
You gonna be ready for TE Sept?
Looking unlikely, as been staying in Manchester for work, my next time off at home is the August bank holiday - it’s the dilemma of grabbing the overtime, but not having the time to do anything on it!
Slow progress update...
Been away with work most of August but still managed a bus related injury and subsequent trip to A&E due to some metal or rust in my eye, quite literally a spec of dust, but felt huge, after 48 hours! Not up to my previous standards mind..
There’s been no progress with getting the engine or gearbox ready! But. I’ve been pushing on with getting my lowered bus to fit around the Subaru gearbox...need to do this before the weather turns as I won’t want to be rolling round on cold floors!
Removed the old chassis notches I’d welded in previously along with the surrounding chassis leg either side and the bump stop mounts.
The Subaru gearbox/driveshaft outputs sit about an inch further back than the VW box causing the driveshafts to run at a bit of an angle meaning they would now foul the chassis legs. - so either raise the suspension, or move/remake the notches,
Mocked up where the driveshafts will run - and they run close to where the over gearbox cross member joins to the chassis legs, not ideal, as I don’t really want to remove any of this, so hopefully my measurements are good and it’ll be close but all ok!
I’d already planned to change the sloped panel between the rear wheel arches as I’d previously replaced it (before Schofields started producing the pressed panel) with some sheet steel, and although a sound repair, it looked carp to me!
So with this panel cut out, access for fitting some full box section chassis/notches would be improved.
Using 80x40x3mm steel box, I made several templates to get the cut angles right, but got there eventually.
Not quite finished, the new chassis bits are all in though, a bit of tidying up to do before paint, and thinking of adding an additional brace at the bottom of the shock absorber tower - going up to the new chassis section/notch for some additional strength.
Doing a few days shuffling about under my bus makes me think I’m getting too old for this - I’ve got new aches everyday, and my back is reminding me I’m not so young!
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Bloody hell, you're only about 28 aren't you!
I think I’m older than you!
He’s younger than me!
I’m only just older, but feel 79 after working under the bus!
Going to get the gearbox mounted tomorrow with driveshafts bolted in and get it back on it’s wheels to check the clearances are adequate.
Then can get back to doing the important stuff, with the engine/gearbox.
Let me know Matt, if the bare engine block needs to go out out on loan or back upto you.
If your finished with the block I can drop it back to Matt at TE unless your going?
Not going to TE but we can sort something out
wow.. you make my conversion look like a walk in the park. I like the idea of the spare wheel well for your electrics.
I mounted my heater blower between the rad and the floor and it seems to be ok - might be worth looking at as an option.
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