Hello again, 1600 Stock TP, single carb engine Bit of history to this problem. The van has been running fine, we have had it out on the road since mid February. Start of the week i tried changing points and condensor to pertronix electronic ignition, after i had fitted it correctly it wouldn't start at all, did the various checks coil, leads, sparks all ok. So presumed it was the new module, as i was running out of time i swapped back to the P and C, before i did anything to the distributor i marked it all up so it would fit straight back as before. Just been out to the van and same symptoms. It will not turn over at all. I have no one to help me at the moment, so i can't check for a spark etc. if all of those check out again what could it be. Could it be the fuel. thought it may be the selonoid on the side of the carb, could that be stuck (remember hearing this on another thread somewhere). if so how do i fix it. Will check the fuel pump by taking the pipe from the side of the carb and see if it will pump fuel when i turn it over, but when i try and crank it over and go back to the engine bay the fuel in the filter has definately changed and slowly fills from the carb so i believe that to be working. As some of you know i am not a mechanic by any means so asking your advice and asking what would you do and check to get me started again, i need it to be ready for Sunday and i am work again all day tomorrow so late night it is
You say it won't turn over at all, if this is the case it is something to do with the starter. But you also say it is turning over
Not fitted but if I were then I would need to re-time the engine after installing as even if the dissy hasnt moved surely the tolerance cant be that close that your "points" would operate at the same point. By turn-over do you mean the starter isnt operating or the starter operates (turning the enhine over) but it wont fire?
Sorry for the confusion, was thinking to fast as i was typing. It will turn over but not fire up. Dicky i didn't get the chance to re-time the engine as it wouldn't fire up. I put the pulley to TDC and the rotor arm was pointing to no1 lead so when i put it back in it was in the parameters of the ball park to fire up but it didn't
Quick up date, still will just turn over but not fire up. Coil checked, rotor arm is ok and turning Have a spark at all plugs but weak because of turning slowly Fuel is being pumped to the carb Still have the points and condensor in and have checked the gap at the points. Scratching head to baldness now, only got tonight to sort it out
Just a thought..are all the HT leads on the right plugs? Wrong firing order can prevent the engine firing at all, I think.
Yeah checked them, even got a diagram out to make sure. Just took the solenoid off to make sure its not sticking, that seems ok as well. I'm now out of all ideas and experience. Last thing is to take engine out and fit a bungee cord fit to rear axle and twist away let go and see if that makes it move.
I think it was turning over slowly as the battery was dieing, battery is now on charge as i have been trying for a while. If it does turn over faster what does it mean. Thanks L.e.F
Right step 1 - do you need the van to get to work? If not step away and leave it for a day, too much stuff going on and you are trying hard to fix it - leave it for a day clear your head(speak from experience) If not ... Do you have some easy start or carb cleaner? So battery charged... Ignition on but dont start engine Take the lead off the fuel cut off solenoid on the carb- does it make a noise if you touch and move away the lead from the connector? Yes - good, no- that is part of the problem. Take the air filter off Squirk carb cleaner or easy start down its thoat- moght cough but will fire up? If not either its electrical issue or timing. You say there is a spark the contacts? Are they opening and closing when you turn the engine (by hand ignition off)?
I have took the distributor cap off and watched the points open, so thats ok, i think. Thanks for your reply and will post tommorrow night, but for tonight we will act like children and make merry
Your fuel cut off solonoid should audiably click when you remove the wire If it does its still worth removing the solonoid to see if its stuck in the fuel cut of position It was never a problem with original solonoids but the modern repros have a habbit of sticking in funny positions
Just a thought but check the points gap, obvious thing but will certainly stop it starting and check leads connected right
if like me you have no friends ,attach a wire to the spade terminal of your starter and bring the other end to the positive end of your battery ,with ignition "on " you can touch the wire to the + and the starter will turn the engine... and you can see what is going on instead of ,"turn it now dear syndrome" and falling out with the wife..
Well finally got the van started. Still confused though, (As you will recall 009 distributor and bosch coil). Static timed by finding TDC and rotating distributor base so that the rotor arm was pointing towards the notch whilst checking the valves. Then static timed it at 7.5 BTDC with a static light. When i got the van started it took an age to get going then ran like a dog, had to keep the revs up otherwise it died, when i got the strobe light out the TDC notch was at least 2cm to the right of the crack in the crank case. 1. Why would it be this far out if i had static timed it correctly? because all the info i read said that if i static timed it it should be ok, eventually got it timed at max advanced. It still is a right Bee Hatch to get the engine to start again. Before all these problems the van used to start really easily, why would it now be so difficult? Leaving the pertronix ignitor module alone for now as that was a different story.
It should start easily and run as before obviously. So you've done summat you haven't put right yet. Valve clearances? When I static time with a bulb I set the pulley to 7.5 degs, turn the distributor. When I think it's right, I leave it, back off the pulley and turn the pulley to check - more accurate. It's always bob on when checked with the gun. You're doing something wrong.
Sorry mate but these old tubs were designed to run on old tech points and rotar, i know zillions of people will shoot me down with the 'I have run electronic ignition for 25 years with no trouble' but there is nothing wrong with points etc. Modern cars are designed with electronic ignition from day one. Stick with points. Please check the earth strap lead is not broken or has cone away from the body inside the dizzy body. Ensure the lead from coil to dizzy cap is on well at both ends, sometimes they work loose when you disturb stuff. Please tell me you are using copper plug leads not silicone ones? Btw you will fix it, dont worry its just time thats all. ;-)
I am hopfully finishing work early tomorrow, so will get back to it. Should be sorted this time tommorrow. Then onto the next five minute job
Oh how chuffed am i!!! Skived off work early today, got on with the work on the van, just checked the work i had done previously. Started it up and it sprung to life left it to warm up and checked the timing all ok. Pushed my luck and took it out for a drive, massive smile on my face feeling well chuffed. Got stuck in a traffic jam saw a lay by so pulled over put the kettle on and made myself a brew, then sat on the edge of the road pondering the traffic and where to go next. Just then my boss saw the van and pulled into the lay by, explaining that i was a lucky barsteward to be able to do this on the way home from work. Oh well, he who dares Rodney
