Got the JK split charging relay and wiring kit now, question is where do all the wires go? Got confused with first pic at how the leisure battery gets connected? Switched live wire goes...? Any help with these two diagrams please? Thanks
ignore the 12/7S socket and any BS about the fridge 86 switched live from the ignition 30 permanent live from starter batt 85 earth 87 to leisure batt you'd think JK could draw up a less confusing diagram.... put 30A fuses as close to starter battery and leisure battery as possible....I wouldn't trust having one fuse at the relay, especially when folk could be running long cables to it
I'd still put fuses in next to the batteries tap the the blue cable to the voltage regulator with a scotch lock
Send it back and get at least a 30amp relay kit 15amp will not be enough have a read of this http://thelatebay.com/index.php?threads/leisure-electrics-12v.5390/ This is a cheep kit http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/221266074523?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649
I think the cable in the kit is a bit small and the relay may not take it does the relay have a rating on it
Nope, hella numbers but have googled it and it's a 15amp one. I can't send it back as I bought it off someone on here Cable thickness looks ok so I may just get a 30 amp relay and some inline fuses?
You could give it a go and keep a eye on the 15amp fuse the issue will be if you run the battery down past a point when you start up it will blow you could probably get away with putting a 20amp fuse in it
It is really not my intention to scare customers away from JK, but I find those kits quite silly. I use the same relay for split charging as the hot relay, it's a 40amp rated Hella relay from a VW/Audi golf mk2 era. They are really heavy duty, and go for peanuts on ebay. search vw golf relay 18 they use 9mm spade connectors - (thicker than standard), so get some of those too. Get proper gauge wires to go with it, and it'll outlast the bus, and probably cost less than those kits. It has a black number 18 printed on the back - get a used original, not a new replacement Here's a more user friendly diagram: the thin charge light wire on your alternator will be light blue, not red, and the thick red wire from alternator to starter battery is already connected, so just ignore it.
Your JK kit should work fine - it just means you can't flatten the leisure battery below a certain point, otherwise the fuse will blow when you start the engine and the alternator tries to recharge it. If the fuse does blow, you'll have to charge the LB with a mains charger and replace the fuse. The difficulty will be knowing if the fuse has blown. I did a back of an envelope calculation, making all sorts of assumptions(*) - and reckon that you can go down to 10.9 volts on the LB before the alternator charging current will be 15A. Even then the fuse won't blow as the fusing current is normally double the fuse rating. It might be an idea to install a volt meter on the leisure battery circuit (with a push switch perhaps), so you can keep an eye on it. You can also check whether it's charging as it should read about 14V once the engine is running (and if not, the fuse has blown). Assumptions: LB internal resistance = 5milli Ohms (sealed lead acid - AGM will be higher). Wiring resistance = 0.2 Ohms Alternator Charging Voltage = 14V, and the alternator is an ideal voltage source Ignoring Starter battery & other loads.
Obviously have to look into this a little more and try things out as there's some interesting ideas there, cheers
at a pinch you can use the coil +VE for the switched ignition feed for the relay, but this means the voltage regulator is effectively bypassed...15A fuse will blow if LB is run down, hence my advice to splice into the VR cable.
Hi all, I have one of these: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-x-70-AM...al_Components_Supplies_ET&hash=item5af428ff16 Ive installed it but i dont know if its working? How can these be tested to see if they are not faulty? Any help will be appreciated. Ta
Put you meter on the leisure battery note the voltage then start the engine and the voltage should be higher
I got a battery off of razzyh, it's a 100amp I think. He didnt think it was working up to its full potential,I topped it up with a bit of rain water and stuck the ctek charger on it. Did a full run on the charger to revive it and it seems ok but then again haven't tried it on the bus as yet
