Had electronic igntion for so long but ruling out if its failed. Fitted a working point non vac advance but can someone confirm. Static timing the light stays on for large movement of dizzy. In picture you dont need the magnet type spacer under rotor. Once I prove electric side will look at fuel side. Sent from my SM-A405FN using Tapatalk
Should be one for 45 degrees then off for 45. spark occurs when it opens (when light goes on as it not being bypassed by the points anymore)
Dont forget all the wires wil be 90 degrees out going from vacuum to non- vacuum distributor.. Simply fit a remote start button/hotwire kit and then you can crank the engine by pushbutton or wire tapping on battery plus, with a spark plug connected to the distributor lying on the tin to see if you have spark. Make sure you have a working condenser, they do fail with use, sometimes a bad coil can flash over and damage the condenser. More modern electronic points replacement have variable dwell feature that means until the engine cranks the points dont 'close' so static timing with a light to earth the light will stay on 100%. So you need to crank to see spark not static time (although waggling the distributor furiously will trigger it and you can get close enough for the engine to run with practice)
Yeah agree temp fitted cable to starter years ago when last had distributor issues. Tbh its probably logically not as I said electrical. Poured easystart and petrol in both carb throats and still didnt try to fire but didnt get petrol smell. Struggled to remove hoses from joints but never seem to get more than an hour at moment to look into it properly. Worst thing is gotta drop engine over winter and sort crappy empi manifolds ( been on to do list for years) Sent from my SM-A405FN using Tapatalk
You . Flooded. It. Easystart Makes It Worse. In the past I have had to crank a perfectly set up engine for about 30 seconds to clear the petrol after too many waggles of the accelerator pump. Then it chugged weakly to life and about a minute later was grinning at me idling perfectly...
Last night got engine to fire after static timing but misses and pops badly like firing on 2. Need to do complete strip out of all leads, caps as they worse for wear. Sent from my SM-A405FN using Tapatalk
Cleaned all carbs and didnt smell or seem flooded. Got good pettol squirt too. Sent from my SM-A405FN using Tapatalk
If the two misfiring cylinders are the same side, expect an air leak on that side or the carburettor linkages need synchronising so that butterflies open together to start with. If you dont have a synchroniser air flow meter 'snail' you need one to measure. With a running engine, and no air filters on the engine, a badly out of balance carburettor linkage will 'chuff' slightly out of step each side if you press on the throttle cable and open it up from idle. I found a worn set of heim joints on a T4 engine at Techenders once by listening to the 'chuff' then noticing the linkage one side was basically about to fall off. If the two cylinders not working are front or rear pairs then this may be an artifact of the manifolds - it may idle on 2 and run on 4. The good 'ol boys Kadrons often do this. Or nasty would be a worn camshaft lobe not opening valves properly, shared between opposing cylinders.
Hopefully electrical as before removed dizzy ran no issues. Fitted what I thought was a better dizzy and struggled since. Plugs dont seem good fit in cap and cap seen better days (will order leads,cap). Fitted a working points set up but engine struggles firing and sounds as I said on 2 cylinders. 1 tdc is at 10 oclock not normal 2 oclock which seems strange as not 180 deg out is more like 270 deg. Sent from my SM-A405FN using Tapatalk
