Bosch coil, 7mm leads, 009 bosch distributor, 1600 TP Stock engine I installed a pertronix ignitor 1 module to my 009 distributor today, i took the distributor out to make the job easier, i marked the position of the distributor and cap followed the instructions and all went well, made sure i connected the + and - leads to the correct connections on the coil. Then re-fitted the distributor to the appropriate position made sure the rotor arm engaged when i turned the pulley wheel and connected it all up securely. Went to start it and it would not fire up at all, not even nearly firing up. i remember someone saying they had to move their cap a far way out. Tried moving it 180 degrees out, put a new coil on, tried moving the distributor while someone else turned the engine over to see if i could get some life, nothing. Must admit wasn't happy with the packaging it came in. It was just a cardboard box with scrunched up paper in it and the module and instructions, no expensive pertronix box and this was from VWH. Have i missed something, i thought it was plug a play, then time the engine again. Has anyone else had issues with duff modules, or yet again i up the unlucky one. I had an accuspark set up before which went after a year as well. May just reside myself to the points and condensor
Are the dissy drive dogs/dissy properly seated (should be absolutely no play when you wiggle the rotor)? You will need to reset the ignition timing after installing the Pert (your original dissy position will likely not be in the right place). Set it statically with a light bulb first, to get the engine running. Points are a step backwards...
the ignition timing will be close enough if its back to where you marked it, have you got a picture of the inside? i had a problem with these once where the rotor arm didnt go far enough down the shaft and didnt lock in as the rotor held the rotor arm high and it spun round when running
No pictures tonight, to make sure i hadn't fried anything i replaced the P and C's and the engine fired up straight away. I was going to see what people said and have another go on saturday if no joy then i will send it back as duff. Amate is coming over with his working module so will swap them over as well for a bit of fault finding. I remember on previous threads people having trouble with the magnet around the the rotor being very tight and not going to the bottom but it all fitted smoothly and it went down to the end, others had trouble with alignment thats why i tried rotating the distributor slightly.
Hello snotty, set the timing without a light, as i haven't got one however put it to TDC with the rotor pointing at number one, this should have got the engine firing then i could have timed it at full advance once it had been running a couple of minutes. Thought i should have had something
did you get the + and - the right way round if not you may have blown the unit + to the black live wire that goes into the wiring loom
Stick a bulb or voltmeter between the coil -ve and ground, turn the ignition on and rotate the crankshaft pulley. If the bulb lights up and goes off again, the Pert's switching correctly, so your prob's elsewhere. I've done a few Perts, and never had probs with them. The only thing I've noticed is that setting the timing statically, you have to turn the engine backwards quite a way, then forwards to set the timing point. I think this is a function of the Hall-effect trigger - once it's triggered, the magnets have to move right away from the unit before it un-triggers itself.
Matty, The instructions that came with the module say "connect the ignitor black wire to the (-) negative side of the ignition coil, i checked this and re checked because of others having this problem
Is there a test i can do on the module itself, i'm no electrician but i have multimeter could i put it to one of the settings (which one i don't know) and connect/attach the negative prong to the black lead and positive prong to the red lead and it show some kind of reading to show the module is working
Wiring is red Pert lead to the +12 side of the coil (side with the thick black lead), black Pert lead to the side that the contact breakers (side the green wire was connected to). Connecting it back to front will likely pop the power transistor in the Pert, if you're unlucky. Switch your meter to volts (20V should do), +ve lead in the volts socket, connect the +ve lead to the contact breaker side of the coil, -ve lead to the crankcase. Ignition on, turn the pulley. You should see the meter reading sometimes show 12V, sometimes 0V. This'll mean the Pert is switching the coil correctly.
Give it a go. Actually easier to see on an old-school analogue meter, but if the volts hop between +12 and 0 on your DVM, the Pert's fine
I also found that the magnet ring did not easily slide down the distributor shaft. It stopped a few mm high - and nothing happened at first with my Pertronix.
This seems to be a common fault, how did you rectify it? did you just file a couple of mm from the bottom
I found they go on with a bit of a tap from a hammer...BUT you've got to make sure the profile of the rotor hole is correctly positioned on the dissy shaft. Quite hard to see. If it's not, the rotor will break .
Sorry may not of made it clear It doesn't matter what's marked +or - on the coil as they are often wired wroung and the coil will work ether way What's key is that the red wire+ of the unit is on the same terminal as the black wire + comeing from the main loom
