In the middle of lowering my bay ,a quick question,I have put it down one spline in the rear but I see people using horse shoe plates and some putting it down to splines , is two gonna be to low ??? Anyone give me the low down ,
lol! im considering the exact same thing, thinking of going to Dead Dubs in Derbyshire and im torn between one or two, Ive read a couple of times that if you go down on horse shoe plates its best to go down one spline then let the plates do the rest. but their 2 spline option requires chassis notching so not sure what to do really...
You should be ok down two outer splines on flat roads but on anything rough you run the chance of hitting the drive shaft on the rear chassis rails If its a camper and its fully loaded for a weekend you also may have problems Lowering = can of worms
Each to their own i say I dont like ruining the capability of such a practical vehicle just to make it more asthetically pleasing to the show crowd Then again i would never lift mine as far as most of those i posted
My vans never gonna be a tramper ,always loved the look of a slammed bay ,never done anything to my last one I run it totally stock and I took it some places ,remember when I had it at the local farmers show and the car park at the end was a bog ,well while everyone and there dog was getting pulled out by tractors that bay of mine made it out under its own steam up to its heater box's in mud ,I got some looks that day
They do perform really well in less than ideal conditions thats why i love them But as i always say its your bus you do to it what you want One of the great things about dubs is its one of the scenes where you can stamp your own personality on the vehicle and that makes it cool (well it used to be )
1 spline is easy, keep wheels and tyres, maybe uprate the shocks a bit, chop off the front bump stop mounts and lower blob of the rear stops. Horseshoe plate = approx 1 1/2 - 2 splines on their own, opinions on their safety vary, but I'd advise new bolts if you fit them. You can't get the wheel off. 2 splines as said earlier = can't get the wheel off unless you use adjustable spring plates. Also you will have almost no suspension, though if you leave the top inch of the rubber pump stop no chassis notching needed. You'll also be changing the front tyres, shocks all round, messing with coil-overs... Lower still requires tubbing and notching. I'd quite like to be able to go from 1 spline down to one spline up at the touch of a button, but I can guess there'd be a lot of pain and grief along the way.
So I will need to chop of the front bump stops with just an adjustable beam ? ,I am tempted to drop the rear 2 now and mod the bump stops
No because there are so many different ways of going about it and opinions on whether to do it at all. I've tried them all and ride stock. Nuff said.
Right so let's get this how u would do it ,I want it as low as poss with as little parts fitted ,I have done the beam ie ,fitted adjusters ,still have the bump stops fitted ,do I need to cut these of ? ,also I will be getting uprated shocks fitted ,on the rear I have already moved the rear arm one spline bit would like two just to pull it down a wee bit more ,can this be done without notching the rear ,as people have said before maybe cut the bump stop down to stop it hitting the shafts , was also going to change the tyres so the profile isn't so high ,sorry for all the stupid question s
You might have to either notch the springplate or cut the stop off the carrier. Notching the springplate seems like a silly thing to do to me. This will get you down 2 splines, but you'll need to jack the springplate down to change the wheel. Try it and see how you feel - no parts. Or go for an easy life and get yourself adjustable plates. Either way you'll need shorter shocks and need to remove the bottom fixing bolt to change the wheel. For the rear bumpstop at 2 splines cut all but 2/3rds of the top bump and it will catch it before drive shaft or diagonal arm touch the chassis, but as I said earlier that doesn't leave you much suspension. Do the same at the front and you'll be riding a bucking broncho bouncing between the seat and the headlining (in my experience on local roads round here), but on a smooth road it should be very nice to drive if it's set up correctly (camber and tracking, front and rear). At the front I'll be honest, I don't know if you'd have a steering arm/chassis problem and it might depend on how low you set it. Again shorter stiffer shocks will be needed and unlike the rear, smaller tyres. 1 spline 2 splines and flipped spindles, smaller front tyres. Of course you can adjust the rear down in approx 5mm steps and set it any height you want...
