AS 1600 engine Had oil coming from between the crankcase and the bellhousing, so we're talking engine oil seal at the flywheel end. Favourite garage was too busy so had the seal replaced by someone who commented there was a fair amount of endfloat on the crankshaft. But the leak continued, and my preferred mechanic now has the engine out. Seems there's nothing wrong with the replacement seal except he thinks the endfloat is causing the seal to move to a point where the seal is too close to the end of the flywheel flange. Hence the leak. Question. A different profiled seal housing would solve the problem, by placing the seal further onto the flange. The mechanic says the endfloat is getting towards the limit but no real cause for concern. Are other seals available which would solve the problem?????
I am pretty sure you can sort something out with seals but I would be more concerned about the endfloat? Grab the pully at the fan belt end and pull and push it (mind you engine is out isn't it?) how much fore and aft movement is there? Are we talking mm's here or inches!
I only saw the mechanic move it from several feet away, but HE thinks it's within limits. Will be down to the garage again in a few minutes so will ask him to measure it. Bank Holiday away looking less likely at the moment
Oh dear! Mechanic has just checked with the boss, and they've come to the conclusion that the endfloat is too much. At a casual glance it seems to be 2-3mm, way more than recommended. Right - the new challenge is to source a new engine very quickly! The present one doesn't smoke and last time I checked the compression was all good. Maybe just the bottom end. What are my cheapest options, still hoping to get away this w/e...... fingers crossed.
Are they checking the endfloat with the flywheel fitted? If so it sounds like the bearing is moving in the case No cheap option im afraid
To check the end float you need the flywheel fitted otherwise you will get a false reading Then when you have your reading you use a 3 shims in the correct sizes to bring it within tolerance Hang on theres a you tube vid that shows how its done ill go and find it for you
I am sure they do know what they are doing (just remind them this is 1930's engine design and tolerance not 2013 Toyota gaps! If you see them trying to find the engine lid near the headlights............. erm...............run!
Me too. Out of their experience I think. No doubt you don't really have end float prob but when that's cleared up, if you do have a goove worn on the flywheel, you could have it turned down a little and fit a speedysleeve, or a diffent size seal to suit.
I looked into seal sizes, the next available internal diameter is 2mm less With same outer and depth, I've got one unused if you want it? I've also got a new flywheel that's done about 100 miles, now also surplus to requirements!
Apparently, even with the flywheel fitted the endfloat was too much. Anyway, just done a 300 mile round trip to get a unused remanufactured engine. No warranty or anything so for £800 it's a risk. We'll see if it's worth it when fitted! REBUILT 0 MILE 1600 BEETLE ENGINE. THE ENGINE HAS HAD A COMPLETE BOTTOM AND TOP END REBUILD. -REGROUND CRANK -NEW MAIN BEARING SET -NEW CON ROD BEARING SET -RECONDITIONED CYLINDER HEADS AND ALL VALVES LAPED IN. -RECONDITIONED 85.5MM PISTON AND BARRELS KIT -NEW PUSHROD TUBES -NEW OIL COOLER -NEW PISTON RINGS. -ALL NEW TINWARE. -NEW PLUGS,LEADS,GASKET SET,FLYWHEEL SEAL,DISTRIBUTOR,PETROL PUMP.COIL,OIL SWICH,ETC. -REBUILT SOLEX 34 pict3 INCLUDING THROTTLE BUSHES. -USED 200MM FLYWHEEL. -END FLOAT SET AT .004" -VALVE CLEARANCES SET. THIS WILL LOOK GREAT IN ANY ENGINE BAY, YOU WON'T BE DISAPPOINTED. EXCELLENT QUALITY ELRING GASKET KIT USED ALONG WITH PROPER CASE SEALANT(used by Subaru to seal there cases) SO WON'T BE LEAKING OIL! Fingers crossed then!