it appears I have been negligent with my type 1 engine as our camper went into a garage for a service and tune up and I was informed that my oil pressure light was not illuminating. Unfortunately the garage could not sort it as they schedule their day/work. So today I decided to check it. Firstly I removed the tell tale oil temperature dip stick and connected just the pressure switch. There was still no illumination when the ignition was turned on so I connected the wire in the engine bay straight to earth instead of the switch but still no illumination. I then directed my attention to the dash binnacle where I found the bulb had blown. I replaced it for another and with the switch in the engine bay connected the light on the dash illuminated but was dull and appeared to be pulsing. I changed the bulb again but it got no brighter. I again connected the wire in the engine bay (that connects to the oil pressure switch) directly to the negative side of the battery but the bulb did not get any brighter. It also continued to pulse and I thought it was pulsing in time with the clock so I disconnected the clock but the pulsing of the dim bulb continued. So I’m now wondering if I have a bad earth on the dash pod or a loose connection behind the dashboard. Has anyone had a similar issue?
The dullness may be crusty connectors on the wiring. The pulsing may be the voltage regulator for the fuel gauge turning on and off. This is normal. Worth checking/cleaning the terminals on the dash pod, including the earths.
The instrument pod may be wired up incorrectly and the bulbs running through the gauge voltage regulator.
I think all of the above. Sounds like something not quite right with the wiring on the instrument pod.
Today I have uncoupled all the wiring to the dash pod and cleaned all the terminals as well as the spade connectors that connect to the bulb holders and the earth connections on the pod itself. I have chased the wires back as far as I could and cleaned any joint/terminal I came across. I put it back together and still it was a dim glow on the low oil pressure warning light bulb and a dim pulse (the earth for the generator light, fuel gauge voltage regulator and low oil pressure light are shared) This made me wonder if the section of wire that had been replaced several years ago from the loom to the oil pressure switch was too thin a gauge to carry the current so that was replaced with thicker gauge wire and soldered into position. However still the damn warning lamp glow was dull. So.....in a last ditch attempt to resolve the issue I swapped the generator warning light bulb holder for the low oil pressure warning light bulb holder......hey presto full illumination and the generator warning light was now dull. New bulbs have now been purchased and fitted and all are fully illuminated and working as they should......this means all my woes have been due to a blown bulb I inadvertently replaced with a duff bulb from my spares stash (said bulb is now in the bin). Aren’t classic vehicles great to work on! Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Happens to us all! Not unknown to have a throb on the gen/alt light, as the +12 supply to the panel is through skinny, old wiring. As the gauge regulator turns on, it pulls the voltage down a bit on everything else. Most noticeable at night.
Cheers for that. Now got to remember how the hell I have managed to fit the 2 left side dash pod clips in the past. My hands are too big and arms too short.....arrrgh.
Next question relates to the cage the stereo fits into on the dash. The previous keeper clearly measured once and cut badly making the hole slightly too large for the cage and this makes the stereo loose in the dash and CDs often ‘jump’ whilst playing due to it. Any suggestions on how to get around this issue that don’t require dash removal, welding up and respraying? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Maybe earlier models are different but I just attach the clips loosely to the dash panel, push it into place and tighten it up. You don't need to fiddle behind to fit the clps.
When I was an apprentice i used to share a van with a guy who would always put the duff fuses and old light tubes in with the new ones. What fun he was.
My solution was to cut a rectangle of plywood, cut a DIN sized hole in that and poke the DIN stereo fixing frame through it and the dash behind.. Then I could get the triangular flaps on the frame to really bite on the back of the dash. Also you may find a bolt on the back of the stereo and a bit of Meccano like strip in your junk box. Fix one end of the strip with a self tapper to something solid that isnt the handbrake lever. Bolt the other end to the stereo. Stops the back flapping as intended .. it was a part of your stereo's original fixing kit. Mine just sits on a big birdsnest of wires from the DIN mount to Sony wiring adaptor.
