I thought I would start another oil thread... This time its how long you go between oil changes when you have a T1 engine with full flow filtration? I find the oil on my 1641 lasts 5000 to 6000 miles before it goes what I would regard as black enough to make it noticeable on the dipstick, then I change it. Comments ?
I change the oil on my Type 1 once a year, same on the Type 4, the bus does about 4k, the Bug less. Do it at the beginning of winter so the nasty old oil isn't sat in sump over the winter layover.
I would say 3 times a year on a new engine. Older lumps twice a year. In the UK that should be fine oils a lot better than it was if you ask me
i just put a drop on my tongue ever time i check the level. When it tastes a bit different i know its time to change the oil.
Don’t get me going on oil. I can count 5 different brands/ viscosities i have used on the rebuilt type 4 lump this year. Cam break in, couple of hundred miles during ring bed in then trying different viscosities due to high oil pressure when cold. Think i got a bit carried away. Should have just stuck to good ol Halfords Classic
Where's the option for continualy topping it up, therefore never having to actually change it beetle not a bus though.
Usually change oil before and after a longish touring holiday. So probably about two or three times a year. Always change the filter before a trip. Probably average about 4k to 5k mls a year.
Once at the start of the season, once after the main holiday ( 2-3 k ) and once so clean oil is in her over winter when she's sat for longer periods.
It is probably a sticky relief valve- my previous engine had a wear step in the bore of the pressure relief valve- took a lot of work to get it to come out when I reused the case. It used to hit over 105psi. Same oil pump same brand/weight oil in a brand new aluminium engine case never over 60 psi.
That's good, best not to give people ideas though. Used engine oil is carcinogenic that's why mechanics used to get bollock cancer from putting oily hands in their pockets and leaving the pocket oily.
Relief valve slides nice and smooth in the bore. I fitted a new genuine one & spring which I checked the spring loaded length. I think it is more due to a fresh rebuild and using a later single relief case. Not sure just how accurate the Durite gauge/sender is also. It peaks about 90psi at cold start but quickly drops to around 70psi & down to 40-50psi when hot, thats at 2-3000rpm. Doesn’t seem to be a problem and as others have said shouldn’t be an issue. I do seem to have a slight oil leak from the front crank seal area however which I need to take a look at.
