Oil Cooler seals

Discussion in 'Mech Tech' started by jimmy1975t2, Oct 29, 2013.

  1. I hate them with a passion now!

    Anyone got any advice on changing them and stopping them from leaking?

    First time I changed them I left the engine in and struggled like mad but got them done, but after about 5mins at idle they started leaking again....... So I pulled the engine out (loads easier) and checked and it was the seals it was leaking past again. I took them out, cleaned them up as gave them a slight film of sealant and put them back in. I also removed the oil cooler from the mount and replaced those seals also. That was Thursday nite and this eve I started it up again to recheck and surprise surprise its leaking yet again, and from climbing in the engine bay I can see behind the fan shroud and its wet below the oil cooler

    Any tips as I guess I'm reluctantly going to have to drop the engine again :(

    James
     
  2. What engine?
     
  3. is your crankcase breather blocked?
     
  4. Is the case cracked near the oil cooler?
     
  5. Right size oil seals? Squished them up too tight?
     
  6. Its a 1600tp in a 1974 latebay. The seals are from a gasket set and I matched them up to what was there before and they sat nicely in the recesses in the top of the casing. I couldn't see any cracks in the casing either. There was a couple of thicker seals in the kit but they where to small and didnt sit nicely in the case.

    By breather I guess you mean the one on the oil filler/alternator stand, if so this has been replaced.
     
  7. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    Have you asked this before, suggesting the case may be cracked? I believe Iagreed and suggested you gently bar up the lug (part of the case) that the cooler stand mounts to to check.
    As you're now rather quick at removing the engine, stripping it down and rebuilding, I suggest if you don't fancy barring up the case or if that's inconclusive, you build it up without the fan housing, run it for a few minutes and watch what happens. It's the only way you'll know for sure.

    I've been through all you are experiencing. I had the engine out. stripped, built and back in 6 times in a week. The case was cracked. Some builders will build you a "rods-out" bottom end. If your top end is known to be good, this is a comparatively cheap way forward...
     
  8. Hi zed, this is the first time I've asked about this one. When you say bar it up? What
    Do you mean? I guess I'll just have to pull it out and give it a good look over again. I'm glad I'm going for subaru power in mine lol
     
  9. What sealant are you using and how much? They're better without any sealant at all, if you have to use anything use permatex 3H.
    :)
     
  10. I only used a slight smear more to locate them than anything. When I fitted them to first time they leaked straight away so I wasn't sure if they weren't located properly. I think it was loctite flange sealer (pink stuff)
     

  11. :)
     
  12. One of the best words in the English dictionary :)
     
  13. When you put the cooler in there does it rock at all? Could be the coolers bent?
    :)
     
  14. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    Sorry, must have been someone else with the same problem. :)
    There's no trick to fitting cooler seals, in fact the exact correct amount of pressure on the seals is automatic because you tighten until the metal faces are in contact, then torque. So, you've tried once dry and once with a smidge of sealant to fit fool-proof seals and it still leaks, it can't be the seals or what you're doing.

    Part of the case with 2 of the cooler fixings overhangs the barrels and it's here they can crack. The one I was dealing with cracked along the edge of the cooler stand milled area facing you as you look in the engine bay. Oil was coming out from under the fan housing. It sounds like yours could be cracked around the other side. Because the oil is under high pressure here, it will be forced out steadily even through the tiny crack.

    I was suggesting that when you next strip it down get a crow bar and prise this part of the case up gently to see if a crack becomes visible. If that's inconclusive, or you just don't fancy doing that, refit without the barrel tin and fan housing/generator/fan and start it up. It'll be fine for a minute or two from cold - possibly good for it as it'll warm up quicker. :) Don't run for too long, but sounds like you won't have to.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Oct 30, 2013
  15. Cheers zed, where your describing the crack to be sounds just where this leak is coming from

    [​IMG]

    I'll get the engine back out again and give it a good thorough look over
     
  16. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    Or do what I did and smear the entire mating surface with silicone and it still pee'd out.
    'Tis a bugger, the case is about as far as you can get from a bolt on part. :(
     
  17. If it needs a case the owner and get a new engine. I was only supposed to have it for a weekend to do some mot repairs :(
     
  18. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    Oh dear, not nice breaking bad news.
     
  19. I'm used it it now with this thing. Tbh it's a bit of a dog and its kind if making the best of a bad situation. The chassis is a like a patchwork quilt and the bodywork isn't much better if I'm honest :( makes me feel loads better about mine even in its current position of full stripped lol.

    As for the silicone all over it crossed my mind but I couldn't bring myself to do it lol. Wonder is chemical metal would work though if its cracked case?
     
  20. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    No, it's scrap.
     

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