Hi, looked around everywhere on the forum to find someone who had issues with new cab door seals, it appears nobody has issues but me! The old door seals fitted nicely and doors closed flush but they were dry and crusty. Bought what I was led to believe, were the best quality seals. The doors are hard to close now with the new seals fitted. The part of the seal down the front edge of the door seems to be forcing the door backwards towards the B post. The part of the seal in the bottom corner of the door seems to be too thick and not very compressable. It pushes the door corner outwards by 3/8" or so, making the panel fit that was previously great, terrible! This situation is the same on both doors. I imagined a bit of tightness and misalignment with new seals, but not to this extent. Any of you improved/cured this? Maybe by shaving a bit off the rear of the seal? Is there a brand of seal that works best?
The best ones are Vewib. You need to slam the door shut and leave it a few days. Perhaps warm weather would have helped.
What colour seal did you buy ? - Custom and Commercial expensive at £109 each [probably are the ones @Zed mentions are Vewib] are probably going to be the best, lighter grey colour, quite soft. Cheaper ones tend to be black and harder .. and they are £80 each .. Except they also sell Brazilian ones which are a lot less expensive £22, look a nice colour, made of nice soft rubber, but dont fit older style doors without using a fair amount of contact adhesive to stop them dropping out of the groove as they are too skinny. I am using these, but I expect to have to keep fitting new ones. https://www.customandcommercial.com...h4_light_parts_door_seals--and--winder_parts/
Don’t shave or cut or modify the seals, slam the doors hard so they are properly fully closed , leave them for a couple of weeks or more if you can’t, they will settle in
The ones I bought were from Autocraft and were about £110. They are quite foamy in texture and are a grey colour. General fit was very good.
Thanks for the advice. I really was thinking of skimming a bit off the back of the thicker bits. I will be patient...lol.
Really slam them hard! When I had to bed mine it was a case of slamming it harder than you’d think sensible to do. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
If it's any comfort, I've done both of mine, two years apart. I've just done the passenger door recently and had forgotten how much it needed to compress. The driver's door was the same when I did it but it did take a couple of months to settle down.
I asked this question at Techenders a while back. I didn't realise there's two stages on the door slam. You need to get it on the second catch, then after only a few short months all will be well.
Correct - not a lot of people know that .... same with the rear hatch . Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
I’m amazed this topic isn’t found elsewhere on the forum, in order of popularity I thought we had What Oil What hammer type to murder prostitutes in lay-by’s What door seal The dead/alive status of Tony Hart The least crap CV gator list you live and learn
All of the VW door latches where people can fall out are the safety type with two detents before opening . So you need to shut them "firmly" .. Slider rear catch and cab doors both have two clicks. Tailgate only one click. Personally I prefer the big kitchen knife stashed away deep under a stack of cutlery and trays under one of the seats.
