I didn't think an inanimate piece of metal could cause a person so much emotional pain, but... I'll get to the point. Is it normal the rear engine tin on a 1600 is such a &%$* to get in position? I have been trying to sort out the pre-heat for the air box today, and I just cannot get it into a position where it the tin slots nicely over the pre heater thing and the air hose connector pipe at the same time: See exibit A above. The pipe comes through at such and angle you just can't get the tin over it and the air hose pipe at the same time. I've come to the conclusion that a) something is bent (no jokes please) b) I'm missing a trick Even when I manage to coax the pre heat pipe through the tin I have to lever the tin into place in order to get one or two screws in. There's no way all the screws will fit in, I can fit 3 on a good day. Plus there is barely any room for the hose to the air box to fit over the pipe and definitely not enough to clamp it in place. I can't imagine this is as designed so maybe I am just being an idiot!
The "stovepipe" from under the tin should come up dead straight. That may be your problem. Is it properly positioned underneath?
I've got a similar issue with the hoses from the dog house to the heat exchangers. the bit on the heat exchangers can move a little, if I line them un with the tin.....I cant get the clamp on, if I tweek it so I can get the clamp on.....then I cant get the doghouse fan hose in the other end any tips?? sorry to thread jack
Ah yeh, I had a wonky stovepipe! Fits great now Just trying to work out now how the thermostatic valve works on the airbox. I'd assume it only applies a vacuum when cold, but I was a bit surprised mine released pressure when I disconnected the hose even with the engine off, and I'm not sure it ever releases the pressure as the engine gets very hot when its all connected as it should. Hmm. Will have to look up the pipe with the engine hot and check. One other thing, anyone know what the threaded holes are in the raised bit of the tin that surrounds the manifold heat riser? In the middle of the pic
Yep mine is a bit like that too I have a JP group replacement stock exhaust and I'm not convinced it's the best fit ever. The pre-heaters (or whatever they are) move around little like you say but if I move them even slightly then you loose the clamp to the heat exchanger. Grr. Also the holes in them for the connection pipes were too small so I had to modify the connection pipes I wonder if its just an aftermarket exhaust thing. Plan is to get a quiet pack and connect some longer hoses straight to the heat exchangers. Much easier!
those holes are for mounting another small bit of tinware behind the pipe.....which I'm guessing your missing - should have them both side of the engine
Had a look on the VW Heritage site and I think I see them although it's not very clear, also looks like I'm missing the baffles and air deflectors, whatever they do . I'll add it to the shopping list right under new 1776cc engine.... maybe next year
you should make sure you have all the tin in place. If you are missing bits Megabug are a great place to get them. it all works together to keep the engine cool.
If your 1776 is going to have twin carbs, you won't need them (you don't actually need them anyway, even with a stock manifold). What baffles and air deflectors are you missing?
The stovepipe is supported on a long bit of metal strip. Bend that until it goes through the tinware. Yours looks like it needs to be straightened up before the tinware goes on. The little metal plates round the preheater pipes appear to be unavailable but you can still get the heatproof gasket that goes round the pipe. I ended up cutting up and bending bits of sheet metal (lids off old CDROM drive cases) to make new metal plates. Didnt make much difference to the engine temperature.
@snotty I was looking at the diagram on the tinware page on VW Heritage It looks like the bit I'm missing around the manifold heater is 23? It's not listed anyway. And when I removed the stove pipe I could see a bracket something is supposed to mount to between the stove pipe and the thermostat, looks like it could be #28? Not sure where #14 fits either but I don't see one on mine. And yes twin carbs would eliminate the need for these bits, and the stove pipe. Great excuse to replace the engine @earlylatebay thanks very much for the stovepipe offer! Mine does look a bit like it hit something, in the pic you can see the front half is lower than the rear causing a split along the top. I guess that isn't normal? @mikedjames , thanks yeah I got it straightened up and now the tinware goes on fine. Mine seems to have always run fine too so I'll leave as is!
There are two differently-shaped horseshoe bits like bit 23 that fit around the manifold preheat pipes. They have insulating parts underneath them as hot air seals (bit 24). You can live without them: a bit of VW overkill, IMHO. Bit 28 (and a differently-shaped corresponding bit on the other side) hang from the tinware and form the top of the duct that exhausts hot cooling air. Ideally, you should have these, especially on the thermostat side. Stovepipe connections seem to differ. Mine's got two thin welded tabs: one right-angled one screws under the the tinware, the other is attached to one of the no 2 cylinder exhaust studs. It's not uncommon to have to chase down all the tinware bits that have been thrown away by "mechanics" over the years...
