MIPA vs Bonda primer

Discussion in 'Mech Tech' started by andyv, Nov 26, 2018.

  1. I've been trying to get some Bonda primer as recommended by Fletcher Gillet in his Haynes restoration manual. I can get it on line OK, but I checked with my local auto paint suppliers and they are recommending MIPA primer filler. The data sheet says this is a grey synthetic resin primer based on zinc phosphate with high corrosion protection, free from chromate. It can be brushed on, and the man says it's non porous.

    Bonda primer is a red colour also with zinc.

    Has anybody got experience of whether the MIPA primer is any good compared to Bonda. The price is right and I don't get stung for postage.
     
  2. What will you be using it for?
     
  3. Priming :thumbsup:
     
  4. This is for the first coat after welding. Bonda primer is considered to be good because it contains zinc phosphate and inhibits any rust. Also it’s not porous like conventional primer, so can be applied and left for some time before top coat is added. MIPA is also supposed to be able to do this, but I’ve never used it.

    I’d also like to go around the whole of the back of the sills and arches to give them better protection.
     
  5. davidoft

    davidoft Sponsor

  6. They are both zinc phosphate rich epoxy primers.
    They need the surface to be clean and well abraded to stick properly as they don’t etch the steel.
     
  7. We use Bonda primer like the old fashioned red lead, brush it on around all the seams & where panels etc join, but use Mipa deep fill primer out of the gun, sprayed on as primer coat after etch goes on. We then flat this off & where possible use a Mipa top coat as we like to product match for best results :thumbsup:
     
    andyv likes this.

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