fluid is leaking so I am going to change the master cylinder, its a non servo one I followed http://thelatebay.com/index.php?topic=2109.msg27015#msg27015 Got as far as loosening the pipe nuts and the mounting nuts Not sure if I should remove the plastic reservoir on top of it in situ or undo the pipe and take it out with the cylinder and swap over to the new one before installing it? Does it just pop off, lever off with a large screwdriver? Also there seems to be a little crud in the filler bottle by the drivers seat, how is best to get that out, or shouldn't I worry? It may drain away with the fluid when I undo underneath. I was going to get one from GSF £51 seems good, are those ones OK? They are in stock at Heathrow which is not far away.
I'd remove the cylinder together with its reservoir. It makes an easier job of changing it over to the new one. Its a push fit but be aware that the rubber grommets it locates in may crack when removed so if they look suspect change them as well. Crud in the underseat reservoir can be washed out with Meths if it doesn't clear as it drains.
Great, thanks for the fast reply, I'll do that. Get it all off before I go and get the parts, so if I need new grommets or anything else I can get them at the same time hopefully
I would clean out the reservoir,may as well as its off,you dont want it in your brake system if you can help it,I would use brake cleaner or anything that will evaporate and not leave any residue.GSF do good parts a resonable prices,all my brake parts came from there no problems at all,front and rear shoes,master cyl new flexis and hbrake cables,cheaper than getting them delivered from the usual camper people.
As fritt says, take the cylinder off, then carefully lever the reservoir off as they can get brittle. If you're feeling keen, taking the upper res from under the cab seat off as well: one screw at the back. Give 'em both a good rinse out with meths (safest cleaner for brake parts) as they'll both be full of crud. Heritage will sell you any wayward rubber bits.
I found the pipe between the 2 reservoirs was cracked on one of mine and impossible to get a proper hose for. I got a length of plastic hose from a local hose place for £1. Where is the fluid leaking on the old one, are you sure it needs replacing?
Got the cylinder from GSF, it looks the same as the ones that JK sell but cheaper, it comes with the rubber seals for the reservoir already installed. I guess the switch goes on the side instead of the end like the old one and it came with a blanking plug for the spare port on the other circuit. Rubber hose looks OK, so I am going to leave it on. Just waiting for a one man bleeding kit to come in the post before I install. One more question, I read about bench bleeding the cylinder, my local autofactor does not have the kit. Instead what I was going to do is use up the bottle of fluid I had already, bleeding it and then add the ATE blue fluid I bought today, that way I'll be able to tell when the blue stuff comes out, Hopefully that should get all the air out and flush out any debris left in the system - Reasonable?
It's worth, IMHO, trying to get as much fluid into the master cylinder itself as you can before installing it. Won't be perfect, but it'll get rid of some air.
dont bother with all that nonsence fit the new master cylinder like the old one was fitted but leave the brake pipe union slighty loose put a bowl under the van fill up the reservoir inside till it get to the correct level, when the fluid starts to constantly flow out of the union nip it up do this till all unions are tight then try the brakes you should have a decent pedal at that if not bleed at each wheel starting furthest away from the master cylinder woring towards it, the easiest way to do this is a gunsons easy bleed been using them for over 15 years and never found anything easier
I used a gunsons easy bleed, aside from some very tight nipples that I had to loosen with socket before putting the tube on the nipple it all went well. Thanks to everyone who gave me advice here.
