Hello, new to this site and I have been doing alot of reading lately. A couple of months ago bought myself a 75 devon eurovette fitted with a new brazilian 1600 TP engine (UG code?) I had to tighten the clutch cable three time now and it needs doing again. just wodering what the cause might be? obvious culprit might be a poor quality cable thats stretching, just wondering if anything more sinister might be going in like the release bearing. The first time it happened I thought the cable had snapped as it went suddenly and I couldnt get into gear with the engine running. the other times has been a more gradual process just making it harder to get 1st and second gear The other idea is that the cable could have been twisted thought not holding it properly while tightening the wing nut and its gradually untwisting making it longer? The periods between adjustments are getting longer so it might just be settling. no idea how old it is. cant see any bills in the pack the previous owner gave me.
I can only think of simple things like the thread on the cable end and/or nut being worn. You could trying adding another nut to lock it to test if it is undoing itself.
If a new engine has been fitted they probably did the clutch aswell whilst the engine was out so it may be just bedding in Have you got the correct wingnut on the end of the cable as it has a specific shape on the bottom to stop it unwinding
does the cable look new? new cables will stretch a bit. if the clutch is new this will bed in as said above. you could mark the cable to test if the nut is undoing. i seem to remember the clutch arms bending on some engines but i cant remember which!
I'd doubt whether it's settling if you keep needing to make adjustments. Could be the cable stretching or down to several threads if its about to go - to check, you'll need to remove it from the front and have a good look. Also that the metal cable conduit is firmly attached and that the flexi section at the gearbox end is in good shape. Symptoms do sound alarming - might be the clutch, but eliminate the cable first.
if it was me id treat it to a new decent quality clutch cable, conduit and wing nut for the price they are
Once the cable is fitted you should never have to adjust it ,having said that mine has 15 washers on the end but it has been fine for over a year... buy some washers... ;D
Wow, thanks for all the advice, lots of good tips here. The nut is the right sort because when I tighten it it goes round in jumps I think I'll try to do one last adjustment, put a lock nut on and see if the arm is bent. If all looks ok and it keeps happening I'll go the cable,conduit and nut route. For the price and effort its worth a try. Already have a cable which came with the bus under the R&R bed so it could be the prev owner was thinking of changing it anyway.
I'm with Snotty and L-E-F. New cable should not stretch or need re-adjusting. I think your old one is breaking. Favourite place is where it goes into the bowden tube at the rear axle. Also as suggested, check the steel conduit at this point is attached (welded) to the axle tube.
Get on with it an just change the inner if you already have one. Otherwise its gonna break and then youl have to do it at the side of the road. Last time I had one go it did exactly what your is doing and expired at a road junction leaving B+Q car park. The queue behind me werent overly happy but it only took around 5 mins to change (but ive no front belly pan on)
forgot to say. if your unsure how to do it just ask and if you do pop the new inner in there thenyou can inspect the flexi and the end of the metal tube for splits - get a new spare and outer ordered and everyones happy!
As Dicky says - replace the Bowden tube as well - one of the few parts you'll buy for your T2 where the price won't annoy you.
Ive just bought a new clutch cable for mine as i kinked the old one dropping the beam Id removed everything apart from the clutch cable and ended up having the beam hang of it Which part is the bowden tube so i can check its condition before fitting the new cable?
The bowden tube is the black flexi tube near where you adjust it. Mine does not have the rubber guide which may be part of my problem. I dont have any adjustment left now, short of putting washers on the bowden tube. I am going to replace the tube, install a rubber guide on it, replace cable. Should be good to go. if it does break you can still get out of the b&q car park, just shift into 1st with the engine off and start engine when you want to move off, change gear by matching revs to the gear your going into.
you shouldnt add washers to the end of the bowden cable! there is a prescribed amount of bend that is supposed to be there to allow for engine movement. remember to reset the bow by adding washers under the end of the new bowden cable when you fit a new'un and it does make a difference it will make the clutch judder when setting off under load if incorrect
Dicky was right, it was just about to go, only three strands of cable left - I changed the inner and the bowden cable last night, greased up the inner and linkages adjusted and its much better now - buttery smooth and goes into gear much better, especially reverse. Drove 20 miles to work this morning, no more worried about stop start traffic
Glad you got it sorted dude and thanks for posting to let us know the cause Theres nowt worse than searching to find an answer for a fault you have only to find at the end of the thread the op hadent posted feedback on the solution
