Hello, I have a 1973 CA code 1700cc type 4 engine on standard carbs (carbs just been rebuilt by VW camper Co in Banbury). My problem is that when it stalls (invariably approaching a junction) , because Ive got servo disc brakes, I loose braking and tend to stop in the middle of the junction! - nasty... VWCC said that they set it up to run slow and that it might stall when cold but it should be ok when the engine warms up and if it still stalls then I should adjust the big idle screw on the left carb which I've done. It now runs fine when its cold but still stalls when driving it and warm. Any ideas folks????
Simple Go back to the folk who "rebuilt" the carbs and tell them to fix it. If it's a carb problem it's their fault. They should have set it up to run "correctly" which means correct tickover when warm. It should not stall. Mine is a 2.0L but ticks over nicely at 800rpm and correct emiisions. Have they checked the emissions for you? Would it pass an MOT?
must agree with DD, why people PAY to have work done then would rather sort a problem themselves is beyond me.
Thanks folks, I guess many of us (myself included) hate complaining... Ill let you know what they say.
Hi, I can't say what's happening with yours as I have the same problem and will check back to see how it is fixed for you. Only my carb's were installed and (un)set by me and I can't figure it out. It seems almost as though the motor stalls because the carb's need air for just the last few seconds as is goes down in ideal? I'll be waiting to see if someone has an answer, or suggestion.
Yes, sounds right. Must start the hunt for one of those here in Nova Scotia. Never looked for one yet. Dual carb's are a treat when they are set up , but what a *&^%$^ up when they are not.
The stock twin Solexes, from what I've seen, are hideously overcomplicated. I'd doubt you'd ever get them working properly unless set up by someone who knows what they're doing.
In a minute somebody will come along and offer Ratwell's guide or the like. I wish I could unfathom that, but there are too many different variants on these carbs. I was fortunate that somebody gave me a pair of old carbs back in 1996 which have helped a lot to understand my set up. Get the chokes opening right, check the solenoids are working and no wires have dropped off. That's the usual suspects.
my solex's are on the shelf in the shed, where they'll live for a very long time or until the anger has passed and I decide to rebuild them. My pickup would run prefectly from cold, had loads of power and sounded fine. this lasted around 3 miles. then it would start to stall at junctions and had an uneven if not non existent idle. My temporary fix was to increase the idle speed but this made it drink petrol like a tramp drinking special brew. I put a pair of webber on there instead. the problem with mine was after spending extortionate amounts on the little over priced rubber elbows that seem to last minutes before turning into treacle toffee, i found that the spindles had a leak. this accounted for the lumpy idle and as soon as i squirted some wd on the spindles the idle settled out. once the WD40 evaporated it was back to square one. these carbs are very tempramental when you have any form of air leak. If you can be bothered to re build them then start looking for play in the throttle spindles. then work your way back.
