Help / Advice Please Type 4 1979 T2 Bay Heat Exchangers Studs

Discussion in 'Mech Tech' started by Rocketboyuk, Jun 13, 2019.

  1. So after taking off my nearside heat exchanger due to it blowing and being loose and a
    new one picked up from Just Kampers for 1979 Bay , Turns out Engine has been swapped for pre 1978
    so back to Just Kampers to swap it over, But

    Looking at these studs they could have been part of the blowing problem , due to not being able to tighten the nuts up to create a good seal

    What is the best way to remove and replace studs please ?

    Or could I pack with extra washers /gaskets ?


    Please see photos below

    eAU7U7RZQK6Fo8a9pZLrGA.jpg fullsizeoutput_22c1.jpeg som+JcsSRk2VArb+tlfohA.jpg
  2. Are the studs pulling to out of the heads? If so it's best to tap for oversize studs. You can try to jb weld them in but they will come out eventually.
    If it's just the visible thread that's gone, just replace the studs.
  3. Thanks , It just seems to be the threads that are a bit damaged /rusted

    What is the best way to remove them ? Grips and WD40 ?
  4. You can sometimes get away with locking two nuts together to get them out. Welding a nut on the stud works best though
  5. davidoft

    davidoft Sponsor

    Those studs are usually very difficult to get out and much harder with the head still in, I would either put an extra washer or 2 in or get a longer but
  6. Thank you , Going to give it a go tomorrow
  7. They will not come out with the double nut, as @davidoft said they are the work of the devil.

    Could try these as may provide extra grip to get a bit of extra life out of them ?

    Never tried it but had crossed my mind about what I would do in that scenario !!
    Last edited: Jun 13, 2019
    Betty the Bay likes this.
  8. Saying that that last picture looks very poor condition.
  9. I managed 1 with a double nut (I suppose it was loose) and 3 with welded nuts. One of the studs removed with welded nut did come out with some of the head thread though so had to be tapped afterwards.
  10. Great bit of lateral thinking!
    3901mick likes this.
  11. Might not be of much help but be careful what you do because you might have to have new meat welded in as I did.

    Last edited: Jun 14, 2019
  12. davidoft likes this.
  13. I think snap on do a thin stud extractor are half the battle to actually get the nuts off 4 out of the 8 on mine the studs came out of the head ....plenty Plus Gas let soak for 2 days constantly spraying the stud let it really soak in if you are not in a rush ....two nuts if the thread will let them bind and slowly twist it backwards an d forwards until you can feel movement ...keep spraying all the time and be patient ...go steady with a bit of heat if available's a long old do but you have to avoid all possibility's of snapping the stud .
  14. Thanks for all the help/Advice so far , Going to see if the extra long stud connectors work and seal it first.
    if not then plus gas and two nuts and see where I end up

    I forgot to take a before picture that shows how much tread was spare but only one was blowing

    Any link to the Snap on tool @Faust ?
  15. Look on the snap on website there are loads may have to grind a bit off the sides so it manages to slide further down the stud .
    The two nut method gives you a better feel if the stud is loosening off or not .


    Done a lot of these. very hard to get out. Its one of those jobs were its best to remove the head and get a machine shop to do it. You can also buy over size studs .
    My Machine shop guy had to make a fixture to clamp the head in the right position/angle to core drill the threaded portion of the stud after he had whittled the stud down flush with the stud boss.
  17. And I was just thinking how bad can it be :(

    Not able to get out there today
  18. I take it you are using new freshly annealed copper gaskets ?
  19. Yes, I have the new copper gaskets

    Not 100% sure how I anneal them , reading lots of different ideas

    Advice ?
  20. Annealing copper, heat to dull red heat, then quench in water, the opposite way the steel.
    Valveandy likes this.

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