Heating engineers help please

My boiler has developed a leak from the left hand side brass nut on the valve. I tried nipping it up but that seemed to make it worse.
So I slackened it off and there’s a washer between the pipe and valve. The outside diameter is around 30mm.
Can anyone tell me what I need to buy or better still a link?
Thanks in advance.

 

It’s just a fibre washer. You can buy cheap packs of mixed sizes from any plumbers merchants. A company called regin do a packet of them that’s got 1/2 inch. 3/4 inch and I think 1 inch in the pack for a few quid.

 

Plumbcenter

 

PTFE tape anyone ?

 

It’s a good job we are on lockdown

 

That’s brilliant, thanks folks.
I thought it looked like a fibre washer but didn’t want to disturb it too much to check.

 

In case it’s a bit of an odd ball size, I’d recommend you add a tube of Fernox LSX to your order.

 

Washers ordered and on the way.

Meanwhile, water has got into the divertor valve and now the boiler isn’t coming on at all. I’m guessing the two are connected.

It’s an external Warmflow oil boiler, only 4 years old, and it’s been nothing but bother from the start.

So, can the divertor valve stop the boiler firing and is there a way to run it for just hot water until the engineer who fitted it can get out?

Thanks again guys.

 

It’s a warmflow. And there in one short sentence is your problem. I’d question whether anyone who fits warm flows, firebirds or euro cal oil boilers has any idea what they are doing.

 

Are you sure water has got into the divertor valve. That looks like the leak is on the blending valve, dripping onto the plate heat exchanger underneath and then underneath that it looks like a water pump not a divertor.

what model warmflow is it. Let me know and I will download the manual and see if there is a work around for you. A lot of oil boilers don’t even use divertor valves. They use two water pumps and a couple of non return valves but I think the warm flows use a more traditional set up with a valve

 

Ok if your divertor looks like the picture below then then you might be able to turn the red lever to the open position manually to get it to work.



If it is this divertor valve and it’s knackered then be prepared for a shock, cos I just checked the price of them from my cheap supplier and nearly spat my drink out. I was expecting about £80-£90. Actual price nearer £200. Robbing barstewards. God I hate warm flows.

 

ok so it turns out my cheap supplier might not be far from you. They are in co. Durham which I’m led to believe is up north somewhere. So if your guy wants silly money for the part then you might be able to go and pick one up yourself.

 

Is everything made by Honeywell overpriced?

 

Yes.

 

I don't do oil ,so I've not come across that particular model ,it looks like a heath Robinson production

 

Yes from me as well

 

Thanks for the help again.
It’s a Warmflow Kabinpak Combi 120 HE ECO
You’re absolutely right, the water just kept dripping down into the divertor valve (which looks very similar) and completely filled it.
The valve itself can be turned with the push and turn knob so it isn’t stuck.
I don’t know if it’s a chicken and egg thing but now it seems to be over-pressuring, showing over 3 bar, so it’s venting and water is everywhere. Lucky it’s outside!
Weirdly, the under-pressure light is on.
It won’t fire for hot water or heating.
Yes I’m in County Durham, what’s the name of your cheap supplier please? I’ve a feeling I’ll be needing them one way or another. ☹️

 

Heating World of Spares Ltd
Unit 1B Henson Close
South Church Enterprise Park
Bishop Auckland Co. Durham
DL14 6WA


these are trade only, about the cheapest in the country for gas and oil spares and general plumbing consumables. When you sign up with them you might need to tell them a little porkie that you are a heating professional, but you just tick a box on their website.

 

I must be honest I’ve never opened one of those up, I don’t think they are like a std honeywell valve that power open and have a sprung return. I think they may be power open power closed and therefore use a different motor to a std head. My advise would be to take it apart and dry it with a hair dryer.