Hi all. To eliminate the fumes from coming into the cab & choking the wife & kids to death, I have disconnected the concertina pipes from the heater boxes under the back of the bus. I appreciate that people say you shouldn't get fumes into the bus if the heat exchangers ate good, but I always seem to get this on my buses (I've had a few) and I've always disconnected the heater tubes. All looks good on my bus underneath, the concertina tubes and heater boxes are new & the heat exchangers look ok, from the outside! Must admit that I have capped off both ends where I have disconnected the tubes, I.e. the exit tube from the heater box and the rear end of the concertina tube..have I done the right thing? I was concerned about fumes escaping from the heater box & seeping into the rear of the bus inside, but am I causing a build up of heat? Tnx.
When they're all connected up with the pipes on, if you shut the flaps on the pods using the levers it just dumps the hot air back there anyway so that shouldn't be an issue. Fumes comming through can be engine bay not sealed properly so sucking 'bad' air back in and pushing that through your heating system. Or not noticing you dropped a screwdriver in the exchanger and smelling that every trip for months and wondering where it's coming from Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
We may have to do our own sticky on how to get the heating system working properly on our buses soon.
After I fitted my propex, I took off the concertina pipes and put the diverter pod/valve straight onto the end of the heat exchanger... left them with open end pointing down.
I would check rocker covers for leaks onto heat exchangers first. If your heating system is all connected up properly with cables to levers, you should be able to shut off the warm air which comes from the h/ex & introduce fresh air from the flaps beneath the front grill.
The carp even when set good with no oil leaks on the H/Ex changers ....on type 4's all the air is dragged in from inside engine bay which always stink even on a new engine . I just stick a coat on and shut the levers off ...even when the pods are closed a bit still finds it's way through . I spent a lot of time re building my heating system and money . Non leaking heat exchangers ...pods, new central tube ..snail fan all pipework and clamps . I spoke to one guy about how it still stinks of engine fumes and came up with the idea of attaching a pipe to the snail fan , where there is a circular extension on the middle of the snail fan where it sucks the engine stinking air ....and take the pipe up the side top where the inlet vents are at the side of the van . Not tried it....but sounds interesting ...could be a problem if it's raining mind . Lets face it they are a carp design and had no other option .
Mine always worked well in my bays and beetles, but never had a pancake engine to compare it to. That idea sounds good though
That's the problem with the type 4 engine Malc ...it's taking air direct above a stinking engine ,all engines of that era smelt ...brand new escorts, avengers , moggys and after a couple of years even worse . Only problem with that idea i mentioned, is it's taking colder air from outside rather than nice oily warmer air immediately above the engine making it less warm when it reaches you .
Does all the hot air going into the cabin come through the snail fan, or does some of it come through the engine via the big fan?
I think both ..the snail fan is an extra blaster to get it up it's long colding journey ...but both slurp up engine stink . Tbh i don't use it hardly in winter so it doesn't worry me much now .
Mostly from the fan housing at the bottom, snail fan is a top up when engine going slow like around town I think Sent from my SM-T580 using Tapatalk
