Heater Pipe Connections, Help Please?

Discussion in 'Mech Tech' started by pheasant plucker, Dec 5, 2022.

  1. pheasant plucker

    pheasant plucker Supporter

    Hi,
    can someone please advise the correct way to connect the fan shroud pipes to the heat exchangers. I am a little puzzled. all connections on the exhaust are good and bolted up correctly and the tinware is in the correct place, IMG_20221205_123237390_HDR.jpg IMG_20221205_123257306_HDR.jpg IMG_20221205_123246172_HDR.jpg IMG_20221205_123241912_HDR.jpg but I am having an issue with the spacing pipe connections through the tinware. one side seems higher than the other and where do the rubber seals fit? above or below the tinware?
     
  2. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    The pods on the exhaust are manoeuvrable.
    Don't worry about the height different, just get the cardboard pipes in place, you don't need clips with the black cardboard type, you might if you bought the ali ones.
    The rubber bits cover the holes in the tin, fat side down.
     
    mikedjames and snotty like this.
  3. mikedjames

    mikedjames Supporter

    Yes, hoses from fan housing directly down to the pods through the collars. As @Zed says above.

    The carburettor hot air pipe loops from the black "stove pipe" end sticking up lower down and it goes to the air cleaner hot air intake. It loops round the hose from the fan housing.

    If you do not yet have a proper air cleaner, cap off the "stove pipe" and sort out a proper air cleaner with a thermostat/vacuum controlled hot/cold flap, or else you will have a feed of very hot air coming up through the tinware, where you do not need it.

    Your goal is to be unable to see below the tinware from above the tinware, any substantial holes are designed to have a pipe going through, or something covering up the gaps.

    The bit round the heat risers going to the inlet manifold from the exhaust would have had some heat proof material slotted into the forward facing slot in the rear tin, and some little tin covers between the three screw holes - one on the cylinder head tinware , two either side of the pipe. Can get the sealing bits, but not the tin covers - (I snipped up old CDROM drive cases many years ago, drilled holes and painted them.. )

    Good call on having a separate pressure sender and the stock oil pressure switch. Avoids worry about warning light coming on too easily.
     
    scrooge95 likes this.
  4. pheasant plucker

    pheasant plucker Supporter

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