Just six bolts to take the front belly pan off and if van is stock height no need to jack up. With belly pan off have a good look inside this for the pin and you can also check the front gear rod rubber/nylon bush and if this has gone/missing makes the stick move about alot and costs just £6 to replace
So having got it all back together relatively painlessly, albeit probably not having actually solved the original problem of why it suddenly fell apart in the first place, could you lovely people share some top tips about selector plate positioning so that I can get all of my gears again. Seems in the twilight of Wednesday evening when I took it apart, my marks on the floor pan didn't mark very well. Oops.
Do it all up but leave it loose enough to move. Then put it in second gear and tighten up. Should them be able to get all gears. Have you checked the rear coupling yet?
Bolted it down, and seemed to be able to get all the gears whilst on my driveway. Sadly the test drive wasn't exactly a startling success, and I am back to where I was - but at least with the gear stick pin where it should be, rather than hiding in a belly pan. Whatever the original problem was, it hasn't gone away - and after getting out of my driveway in reverse, and up the road through 1st and second, all the gears disappeared, the wildly looping and rotational gear stick returned, and I was stuck in what felt like 1st. I made it back to my driveway at an over revving 10mph, but with no reverse it's where the van is staying until I can think what to do next. I have no idea what the rear coupling looks like, sorry @pkrboo, everything disappears under the middle belly pan and what comes out is above the heater y-piece and I don't know what I'm looking for. Sorry to be defeatist, but I'm fed up, and so far beyond my capabilities I don't know where to start. Something more than just the gear lever is obviously wrong, but I have no idea what. Thanks for all your help thus far, but I think I'm gonna have to find someone who can fix this for me Any recommendations for the South of Salisbury area?
Don't give up and be too disheartened, next job is to look up just behind the heater Y piece. That is where the rear coupling is that attaches to the gear box.
Hmmmm, I think mine should be attached to more than it actually is..... I can move bits of it by hand that I maybe shouldn't be able to? I'll switch to tapatalk and post a couple of pics.
I assume the screw is supposed to hold something in place? At a rough guess, when I was driving home from work during the week and the problems started, the screw was lost and the rods to the front were therefore able to move more and the pin was able to pop out. My fiddling today and subsequent test drive have resulted in what the screw held together actually coming apart and thus the front stuff aint now attached to the back stuff. A reasonable summary, do you think?
Erm yes basically. The cage part fits onto the bit sticking out of the gearbox. The bolt/screw goes through the threaded part of the cage and into a "dimple'
Ah righty ho. That sounds do-able. I think. A special type of screw no doubt. But a job for another day. ......Supposed to be going out for supper in 45 minutes armed with an apple crumble that I have yet to make, and preferably wearing something slightly more appealing than the greasy clothes I've been rolling around my driveway in under a campervan all day! Sometimes it's hard to be a woman......
https://vwheritage.mobi/GB/productDetails.cfm?iItemID=155683 Here you go, but I will check and see if I have one in the garage
The screw is a pointy M7 or M8 .. think its the smaller one.. bolt but as there is a dimple in the gearbox shaft in the right place for the screw to poke in to even a bolt would work for a bit. Pity it did not go at Techenders..I have both a spare coupler and a spare coupler bolt in the mobile collection ie under the rear seat. And champagne cork wire to wrap to stop it coming undone again. Although thin gardening wire works too. If your coupler is not wobbly when there is a screw in there do not replace the coupler body as new ones often need welding up. Just replace the screw. If its M8 thats just a 13 mm head bolt. Otherwise for M7 you can take off a rear wheel and steal one of the 11 mm head bolts that holds the drum on..The wheel nuts hold the drum on most of the time and rust the rest of the time so some buses dont even have the bolts.